Escoffier.   Georges Auguste     - 2 Escoffier menus, one hand-written by him.
Framed menus; Carlton Hotel, London.
A draft menu hand-written by Escoffier, undated, and another Escoffier menu, but written by another hand in cursive script, dated 1908. Both menus are from Escoffier's tenure at the Carlton Hotel, London.
Enclosed in a glass fronted gold framed picture 322mm x 378mm. The menu in the cursive script is on display. Escoffier's hand written menu is taped under plastic on the back of the picture. All in fine condition. Very rare.
- The very rare draft menu written by Escoffier in his typically messy scrawl would have then been sent to a comptroller who writes on the menu, the date and the name of the recipient of the special Dinner, as seen on this one in blue crayon. It is then sent to someone (probably in the Food & Beverage department) to be written properly and sent to the client. In this case, written in ink in a beautiful hand. Another would be written and then posted in the kitchen on the banquet notice board one week before the dinner. It appears that the letter may be written for the client, a Mrs Williams. But I think this one has come from the Kitchen itself, possibly Escoffier’s office. There were three lots in the auction from where these two items came. All lots were similar with written menus in Escoffier’s hand and menus written on Carlton Hotel headed paper in the same beautiful hand as this one. Also some Carte du Jour menus were in the lots. (See also item # 10980. The written menu by Escoffier, and a Carte du Jour menu as well, all from Escoffier’s time at the Carlton). These two items here are very rare Ephemera and give an interesting glimpse of the way the process works from Escoffier’s office to the client to the Kitchen to the eventual meal served and placed in front of the guests.

click on image to enlarge
Information

Modern category
ref number: 11219

Careme.   Marie Antonin     - William Hall, Translator
French Cookery
COMPRISING L'ART DE LA CUISINE FRANCAISE; LE PATISSIER ROYAL; LE CUISINIER PARISIEN. BY THE LATE M. CAREME, SOME TIME CHEF OF THE KITCHEN OF HIS MAJESTY GEORGE IV., TRANSLATED BY WILLIAM HALL, COOK TO T. P. WILLIAMS, ESQ., M.P., AND CONDUCTOR OF THE PARLIAMENTARY DINNERS OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD VISCOUNT CANTERBURY, G. C. B., LATE SPEAKER OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS. WITH SEVENTY-THREE PLATES ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE ART. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. MDCCCXXXVI.
FIRST EDITION - 1836. 8vo. Title Page. 3pp 'Advertisements' (i-xliv) (1-422) [1] including 73 lithographed folding plates illustrating elaborate dishes. Fully bound in modern black calf with blind tooling on boards. Spine with raised bands, blind tooling, 2 Bottle green labels with gilt lettering, gilt lines with gilt dots. Internally almost new, however some very slight foxing to the title page. There is at least one other edition dated 1856.
- This English translation of three of Careme's major books is very rare, especially a nice clean complete copy like this one. Careme became, because of his brilliance as a Patissier and mastering all other departments in the large Kitchens, the epoch changing force and most important influence on European cookery of the time. This was partly due to the writing of his seminal works, cooking for 12 years for the great gourmand - Talleyrand , serving also, such Royal personages as George IV of England and Alexander I of Russia. His writing stands above all others of that era, in part, due to the monumental aspect of the plates of 'Pieces Montees' and the amount of details of quality in the recipes. The mind is staggered, in these modern days of electrical appliances, processors, refridgeration, hi-tech H&S, controlled storage and distribution systems etc just how Careme produced, day after day, the Grand Buffets for the great houses. The coal fumes, heat and punishing hours took their toll, and Careme, worn out, died at 48 years of age, leaving behind a legacy that is still admired and being written about today.

click on image to enlarge
Information

Antiquarian category
ref number: 10952

David.   Elizabeth     - With a rare E.D. booklet on wine.
French Country Cooking.
French Country Cooking by Elizabeth David decorated by John Minton. HORIZON PRESS. New York.
FIRST EDITION. 1951. With clean slightly browned d/j. Frontispiece, title page, d/j and illustrations by John Minton. 1fep. 2p A Word from the Publisher to the Reader. 2p Acknowledgments. vii-x -Introduction. 2p Contents. 1p Batterie de Cuisine. [15-237](1) Index. 239-247. 1fep. Also enclosed is a booklet written by E.D. "The Use of Wine in Fine Cooking" (This booklet is designed by Saccone & Speed Ltd) The booklet is mentioned in the Acknowledgments and printed in full in the book. A very clean and unique copy, especially with the very rare E.D. booklet.
- As well as the famous John Minton designed dust jackets that David used on some of her early books, each chapter in this book is preceded by a full page Minton illustration, and also highlighted elsewhere by some smaller ones. Peter Ross, librarian at London Guildhall, who compiled an extensive list of annotations from 900 of her books obtained after her death, said: 'She was an extremely private person who gave very few interviews so we didn't get to find out a lot of what she thought when she was alive. She could be highly critical, and had a habit of writing her often biting remarks on post-its or even on the backs of the book receipts. Parts of her own publications also came in for criticism. She wrote in October 1983: 'I never did care very much for the John Minton illustrations for my books.'They are so cluttered and messy. They embarrass me now as much as they did in 1950.' E.D. published two booklets on "The Use of Wine in Fine Cooking". Although similar in appearance, they are both quite different, and are among the rarest of all her publications.

click on image to enlarge
Information

Modern category
ref number: 10996

Roux.   Albert & Michel     - With both brother's signatures.
French Country Cooking.
The title page of this book is a two-page spread. A bunch of red radishes obviously in summer, in a French open country market; The Roux Brothers (a single long line) FRENCH COUNTRY COOKING Albert and Michel Roux. Photographs by MARTIN BRIGDALE. With a tipped in 'good-wishes' card from Albert and Michel Roux, signed by each.
FIRST ENGLISH TRANSLATION 1989. 4to. 268 x 215mm. 1fep. Half-title. Title pages. Printer's info. on verso. (1)Contents. p6-9 Introduction. p10-251. p252 Specialities of Provence. p253-256 Index. 1fep. Full of fantastic colour plates of prepared dishes. Dark brown cloth boards with vibrant dust jacket. Condition as new. ALSO ENCLOSED: A three folding page booklet for The House of Albert Roux 'Focus' Menu. A four page card advertising 'Sutherland's Eldon Wild Blue Pork' being sold by Roux. 1xA4 sheet of Traiteur menu items also available.
- In 1967 the brothers opened their first restaurant, Le Gavroche (The Urchin) at Lower Sloane Street in London. The opening party was attended by celebrities such as Charlie Chaplin and Ava Gardner. For the following week, Chaplin was reportedly shuttled across London so he could eat there. In 1972 the brothers opened a second restaurant, the Waterside Inn, in Bray, Berkshire, and launched a catering business. (see image #6 below). called the 'House of Albert Roux' at 229 Ebury St. London SW1. In 1967 Albert and Michel moved and opened Le Gavroche at 43 Upper Brook St, in Mayfair, London. In 1974, the Roux brothers were awarded their first Michelin star for their cooking at Le Gavroche. In 1977, they were awarded a second, and in 1982 they were awarded their third. Le Gavroche was the first British restaurant to be so honoured. Michelin stars for the brothers' other restaurant, the Waterside Inn at Bray, in Berkshire, soon followed. Graduates from the kitchens of Le Gavroche include Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay, Marcus Wareing, Rowley Leigh, Paul Rankin, Bryn Williams, Andrew Fairlie, including, of course, Albert's son, Michel Roux Jr, now in charge at Le Gavroche, and Michel's son, Alain, in charge at the Waterside Inn. According to Rowley Leigh, "The fact that it is run by an incredibly strong family is key." Paul Rankin: "Whenever you go back you are made to feel amazing and special – a part of the family." In his book White Heat (1990), Marco Pierre White acknowledged Albert Roux as a mentor and father figure. Marcus Wareing calls the Roux brothers "the godfathers of British haute cuisine". In 2010, the Waterside Inn became the first restaurant outside France to have held three Michelin stars for a period of 25 years. An incredible achievement. This book essentially presents, not only the gastronomic heart of the Roux brothers but that of France as well. The Roux restaurants have stayed true to those roots and rather than try to pander to constant innovation, they have presented those timeless French regional classics to the highest standard. Largely because of the Roux Family's influence on the many British chefs who were trained in the Roux establishments, we now have an accepted 'Modern British Cuisine', supported with great appreciation by the many key food suppliers and artisanal producers, up and down Great Britain, capable of suppling the highest quality of all kinds of incredible produce. This is especially highlighted by the three items enclosed from Albert Roux's high-class shop first opened in Ebury Street. Pimlico, in the early 90's. An proud legacy. A fantastic cookbook.

click on image to enlarge
Information

Modern category
ref number: 11311

Kollist.   E. J.    
French Pastry, Confectionery and Sweets: Continental Dishes
FRENCH PASTRY, CONFECTIONARY AND SWEETS CONTINENTAL DISHES BY E.J. KOLLIST Chef Patissier WITH SEVENTY-SIX HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS (a printer's device) CASSELL & COMPANY LTD. LONDON, TORONTO, MELBOURNE & SYDNEY
FIRST EDITION 1929. 255X165mm. 1fep. Half title. [2] Frontispiece of two Royal Icing Stands. Title Page. Verso with publishing date. v Preface. [1] vii-viii Introduction. ix Guide to Sections. [1] xi-xxvi Contents. xxvii-xxviii list of Illustrations. Section half title. [1] 3-268. 1fep. Original light brown cloth boards with 1/4 red cloth spine with gilt lettering. Externally and internally very clean with light foxing on the blank on back of the frontis. A fine copy not usually found in this condition.
- Based on Kollist's twenty nine years of extensive experience as Chief Patissier and Confectioner at Claridge's and the Savoy hotels in London as well as Confectioner on the Cunard ships Mauretania, Lusitania and Laconia. His book is not confined just to pastry. In total it includes fifteen sections of all the areas of the Patissier’s trade; Paste and Dough, Pastries, Flans and Gateaux, Petit-fours, Confectionery; sugar baskets, spun sugar, toffee, nougats, chocolates etc; English Puddings, Sauces, Souffles, Ices , Sorbets and Bombes, Fruit Dishes, Russian Specialities such as tvoroque, coulibiac and piroshki as well as several plates of decorative ice carving and including seventy five half tone illustrations in-text. This is a book from a professional chef aimed largely at other professionals. A fairly common book, but never the less an important item in any good and representative collection of antiquarian and modern pastry and confectionery books.

click on image to enlarge
Information

Modern category
ref number: 11033

David.   Elizabeth     - A signed copy
French Provincial Cooking
ELIZABETH DAVID French Provincial Cooking ILLUSTRATED BY JULIAN RENNY LONDON: MICHAEL JOSEPH
FIRST EDITION. 1960. D/W in very good condition. Green cloth boards with red illustration on front cover. Spine with a red label and gilt lettering. 1fep. Half-title with signature of the author dated November 25th 1960. [1] Title page. [1] 1p Dedication 'To P.H. with Love' 1pp Acknowledgements. 2pp Contents. 9-14 Introduction. 15-459. 460-461 Cookery books. 462-473 Bibliograpghy. 474-493 Index. [1] 1fep. Text very clean. Overall in excellent condition. Extremely scarce book especially signed by E.D.
- The dedication to 'P.H. with Love' is the initials of a lover of that period, whom Lisa Chaney in her book about E.D. informs us, was the person that E.D. loved the most, but eventually left her to marry another. The identity of this person, although known to her friends, is not revealed.

click on image to enlarge
Information

Modern category
ref number: 11004

Escoffier.   Georges Auguste     - Two of Escoffier's menus
From the Carlton Hotel. Pall Mall. London.
Menu 1 -- from the Carlton Grill Room dated May 11th 1909. Menu 2 -- a daily 'Carte du Jour' dated May 10th 1909.
Both menus as new. The ala carte menu has a 1" tear in the fold with no damage to text. Housed in a cardboard, marbled folder with a label on the front cover. Also comes with a black and white photograph of the Carlton Hotel - circa 1910.
- Escoffier was Maitre Chef de Cuisine at the Carlton Hotel from 1899- 1919. These are two of his menus. As such, and in this fine condition, very rare.

click on image to enlarge
Information

Ephemera category
ref number: 10992

Schumacher-Voelker.   Uta     - A wonderful reference.
Front cover: CULINARY BOOKPLATE:
An annotated Picture Book.
150 x 150 mm. 1fep. No Title page. 53 pages of bookplates with owner's names underneath. [1] 2 empty pages for notes. 1 fep. Strong black carboard covers with Uta Schumacher-Voelker's bookplate on the front and Blanchet Magon's on the back. Very good condition; as new.
- This is an interesting and very unusual little book. All fifty-three pages full of nicely copied and presented bookplates. Some of the more well-known cookery book writers and collectors, Chefs etc; Alan Davidson, Elizabeth David, John Craig, Clarissa Dixon Wright, John Fuller, Pierre Koffmann, Waldo Lincoln, Eleanor Lowenstein, Anton Mosimann, Claudia Q. Murphy, Edouard Nignon, Raymond Oliver, Pierre Orsi, Cyril Ray, Harry Schremli, Luis Szathmary, Joseph Vehling, Robert Viel, Georges Vicaire, Lord Westbury, Anne Willan, Tore Wretman and finally John Yudkin. Uta Schumacher-Voelker has produced a wonderful book that is a useful reference guide and a quite comprehensive gathering of beautifully laid out bookplates.

click on image to enlarge
Information

Modern category
ref number: 11334

Coles.   Charles     A very handsome & interesting book.
GAME BIRDS.
Illustrated by Maurice Pledger. Written by Charles Coles. CRESCENT BOOKS New York.
Elephant Folio. 1988. 355 x 225 mm. 2 feps. Title page. 1p Dedication, Verso with b&w Drawing. 1p Acknowledgements, Verso with b&w Drawing. 1p Contents, Verso with b&w Drawing. 1p List of Plates. Verso with b&w Drawing. 1p Forward by HRH The Prince Philip Duke of Edinburgh K.G., K.T. Verso with b&w Drawing. 1p Introduction to the Artist. Verso with b&w Drawing. 1p Game Conservation. [1] (p 19) - 117. 2 feps. Text block as new with 24 full-page colour plates and numerous b&w drawings. In the publisher's brown cloth boards, gilt-stamped to spine. with yellow pictorial dust-wrapper. A sumptuous production with a royal foreword. Fine condition, as new.
- First Printed 1981 this is a very handsome book with wonderful full-page coloured plates by Maurice Pledger. Plate 1 is the Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus). Besides the beautiful coloured plate there is a full-page of very detailed information about the Pheasant. We learn on Plate 3 that the Quail (Coturnix coturnix) was so over-hunted that by international agreements, Quail served in British restaurants are the Japanese species now reared in captivity like poultry. Plate 8 - The Capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus), a member of the Grouse family fly must faster than the Grouse, therefore there during the annual shoot are only 15% compared to 30-50% for grouse. We learn the meat is an acquired taste due to pine-needles in its diet which gives undertones of turpentine in the flesh. The wonderful tasting Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola) is a big favourite of chefs and game lovers. One of the few birds to be cooked and eaten with the trail intact (ie; without being first eviscerated). A generation or so ago a cold roast woodcock, accompanied by Claret, was a much-favoured breakfast for a country squire. Finely, on page 115 there is a fine aphorism for the hunter, from Chief Seath of the Suquamish Indian Tribe, dated 1855 - " What is man without beasts.? If all the beasts were gone, man would die from great loneliness of spirit, for whatever happens to the beasts also happens to man. All thigs are connected." Wise indeed.!

click on image to enlarge
Information

Modern category
ref number: 11268

ALI-BAB       - The pen-name of Henri Babinski.
GASTRONOMIE PRATIQUE
ETUDES CULINARAIRES SUIVIES DU TRAITEMENT DE L'OBESITE DES GOURMANDS (small printer's device) Troisieme edition entierement refondue. (small printer's device) PARIS ERNEST FLAMMARION, EDITEUR 26, Rue Racine, 26
Thick 4to. 3rd edition 1923. Grey paper paste down. 3feps. Title page with a little light foxing. [1] Half title. [1] (1)2-3 Introduction. [1] 1p Preface. [1] 1p Prodrome de Gastronomie. [1] Half title 'La Gastronomie a' travers les ages'. [1] (1)12-1040. Half title 'Traitement de l'obesite-- [1] (1)1044-1051. [1] Table des matieres (1)1054-1073. [1] Table alphabetique 1076-1107. [1] 3feps. The original dark blue fine waterproof cloth boards and a very sympathetically relaid spine with the original cloth. With bright gilt lettering on the spine and front board. The guttering has been strengthened and overall a very nice clean copy retaining all the original features.
- This classic French cookery book ‘Gastronomie Pratique’, was first published in 1907 and has been out-of-print since 1950. Written by Henri Babinski, an engineer who wrote under the pen name Ali-Bab. The first eight editions of ‘Gastronomie Pratique’ sold about 35,000 copies over almost half a century. An English translation, printed in 1974, bore the title ‘Encyclopedia of Practical Gastronomy’. Unusually, Babinski’s recipes are quite accurate and do work well with good results. Although the majority of recipes originate from Babinski’s native France, a significant number come from the Middle East, Eastern Europe, the Caribbean, and Latin America. Prior to publishing the first edition at the age of 52, Babinski spent a significant portion of his life as an engineer outside of France. His recipe instructions also provide much more detail than other cookbooks of the period, more like what one expects in a cookbook today. His instructions, too, are footnoted to elucidate their meaning. At the end of most recipes, Babinski offers numerous substitutions and variations. He used or wrote about a wider assortment of ingredients than is common today. Lobster eggs were used to color dishes. Truffles were used with abandon. There are a number of recipes for brains. One assumes that many of the wild game birds he describes were available at his local Paris butcher, but some recipes seem based on game he hunted fresh. Likewise, some recipes call for specific kinds of fish from specific streams. Other ingredients are common to France but generally unavailable elsewhere, e.g., sheep raised on salt marshes. It is unlikely we will find a butcher that can supply a quarter kilo of cock's kidneys! Occasionally, Babinski calls for ingredients that no longer exist, like ‘sirop de capillaire’, a medicinal syrup made from the maidenhead fern. Along with the standard sections expected in a general book of cookery, Babinski includes a few subjects in his book that today seem unexpected — when was the last time you saw a recipe for pig’s ear? The book’s recipes are offered in nineteen sections. Many appear to be of foreign origin rather than French. A lesser known but great book of gastronomical interest and practical instruction. Very under-rated.

click on image to enlarge
Information

Modern category
ref number: 11102