KOFFMANN.   PIERRE     - A signed copy.
MEMORIES OF GASCONY.
Pierre Koffman with Timothy Shaw. Photographs by Anthony Blake. Illustrations by Christopher Corr.
FIRST EDITION 1990. 285 X 220mm. 1fep. Half-title with Koffman's signature. A double page title with Antony Blake's signature dated 12.5 90. Verso with Pub. details. p5. Contents. A photograph of Koffmann in the dining room of La Tante Claire. 7-9 Prologue. 10-13 Introduction. A double page title for Spring. 16-69. A double page title for Summer. 73-121. A double page title for Autumn. 124-185. A double page title for Winter. 188-247. 248-251 Epilogue. 252-254 Index. p255 Restaurants and Wines of Gascony. p256 Acknowledgements. 1fep. Cream coloured cloth hard cover with black text on the front and spine. d/w fine condition. The whole as new.
- Memories of Gascony centres on the Oratoire, the farmhouse of Pierre Koffmann's grandparents Marcel and Camille Cadeillan, situated in the village of Saint Puy in the heart of rural Gascony in the department of the Gers. This is an intimate account of school holidays spent helping his grandfather to harvest and hunt, and learning to treasure seasonality and the best ingredients at his grandmother's side. The finest of Gascony produce is here, with a focus on simplicity. The recipes stand the test of time. While you read the charming stories of everyday life on the farm, especially the foods available thro' each season, you'll understand the loss today, where foods shipped and available from all corners of the globe, at any time of the year, has wiped out the anticipation and delight seasonal tastes will bring. Read about Koffmann's Gascony dishes; 'Dandelion salad with bacon and poached egg', 'Grilled chicken with shallots and vinaigrette'. 'Greengages in armagnac' in Spring'; 'Chicken liver pate with capers'. 'Bayonne ham tart with garlic'. 'Oeufs a la neige' in Summer; 'Roast hare with mustard and beetroot'. 'Salt cod cassoulet and quince jelly' in Autumn; 'Fried eggs with foie gras, potato and bacon'. 'Pie and tarte aux pruneaux' in Winter; This is a book to love and learn great cooking from. Koffmann first worked as a chef in Strasbourg and Toulon, before moving in 1970 to the UK to work with Michel and Albert Roux at Le Gavroche. He originally only wanted to move to the UK so that he could see England play France at rugby at Twickenham Stadium. He then moved to the Roux brothers' Waterside Inn in Bray, Berkshire, in 1972, being made the first head chef of the new restaurant, where he met his future wife Annie who was the restaurant's manager. He opened his own first restaurant, La Tante Claire, in 1977 in Royal Hospital Road, Chelsea. During his time at La Tante Claire, Koffmann worked and trained several chefs, including Gordon Ramsay, Marco Pierre White, Marcus Wareing and Tom Kitchin soon to share the same eminence. This is a great cook book that was recognised and awarded the Glenfiddich Food Book of the Year in 1991.

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Modern category
ref number: 11322

Escoffier.   Georges Auguste     - One of Escoffier's menus.
Menu du Reveillon, 31st December, 1911.
Carlton Hotel and Restaurant, London. New Years Eve.
286mm x 224mm. With a Great British Empire themed coloured picture on the front. It shows two men, one is a John Bull figure, the other, a Scotsman in a kilt, as well as two ladies representing Ireland and Wales. The dates on two boats prows showing 1911 and 1912. At the top, six little vignettes of famous scenes from countries under the crown. Cardboard cover with four pages. An impressive menu with fourteen items inside. Tied together with multi-coloured cord. A little foxing on the front but not affecting the overall image. A nice item of Escoffier ephemera in good quality paper(for the time).
- Considering this menu is 100 years old it has fared well. Looking thro' Escoffier's 'L'Aide-Memoire Culinaire' of 1910 one can see his dishes on offer for that New Year. His menus from his time at the Carlton Hotel from 1899 - 1919 are very scarce, but when found they give a sense of place and gastronomic history other chef's menus lack.

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Ephemera category
ref number: 11182

Escoffier.   Georges Auguste     - ‘Officier de la Legion d’honneur’.
Menu of a banquet for Escoffier at the Palais d'Orsay.
In homage to Maitre Auguste Escoffier by the society of the 'Cuisiniers de Paris'. for the occasion of his promotion to ‘Officier de la Legion d’honneur’ on March 22nd, 1928 at the Orsay Palace.
A four page menu within covers, with a print of a painted portrait of Escoffier (courtesy of the Foundation A. Escoffier at Villeneuve-Loubet), plus the wine list and menu. Very clean on white handmade paper with a red place ribbon and untrimmed edges, with the outside covers lightly age browned at the edges. A very handsome and unique item. The menu comprises: Creme de Volaille. Consomme Riche. Saumon de la Loire braise au Clicquot. accompagne: d'ecrevisses de l'Issole. Baron de Bebague. garni aux: primeurs de la Provence. Coq en Pate Palais d'Orsay. avec: une Salade Rosettte. Glace Legion d'Honneur. Roseaux pralines des bords du Loup. Corbeilles de Fruits. Friandises. The Wine list comprises: Five vintage Champagnes from 1919 and 1920. A Medoc et Graves. A Bitard Montrachet. A La Tache Monople 1918. The menu is housed in a handsome cardboard folder covered with red marbled paper and a label on the front cover.
- From 1890 to 1920, Escoffier took over the management of the kitchens in many luxurious & prestigious hotels like The Savoy Hotel and The Carlton Hotel in London and Ritz Hotel in Paris. For almost thirty years, he served many of the most famous people of the time, creating for them unique dishes that became renowned, even to this day. After he left London in 1920, Escoffier returned to Monte Carlo and undertook a very active retirement. He never ceased writing culinary books until his death in 1935. Due to the gratitude and unforgettable memory of Escoffier, people, including his best friends and colleagues in London and Paris, created the Auguste Escoffier Foundation. This eponymous museum was established in 1959 in the house where he was born. Mon. Raymond Poincaré was a French conservative statesman who served as Prime Minister of France on five separate occasions and as President of France from 1913 to 1920. For Escoffier's work in promoting French cuisine, President Poincaré personally presented him with the cross of ‘The Légion d'honneur’ or ‘The Ordre national de la Légion d'honneur‘. This is a French order established by Napoleon Bonaparte, First Consul of the First Republic, on 19 May 1802. Escoffier in 1919, was the first chef to receive such an outstanding award. On March 22nd, 1928 he was promoted to the highest French honour as an ‘Officier de la Legion d’honneur’ and again became the first chef to have received this distinction. He was presented his medal by President Edouard Herriot at the Palais d'Orsay. The ceremony was followed at the Palais by, quote “a remarkable banquet" with Escoffier as the guest of honour. In the last b/w photograph below, Escoffier can be seen shaking President Herriot's hand at the Palais as he is leaving. He is also surrounded by the brigade of chefs that cooked the banquet. This extremely rare menu is from that memorable occasion.

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Information

Ephemera category
ref number: 11113

Escoffier.   Georges Auguste     - 2 of Escoffier's Carlton Hotel menus.
Menu Reveillon 1913 - 1914 and Menu Publicte 1913.
Two menus designed by Georges Redon, one with a large drawing titled "Hommages", and the other, a surreal painting entitled "Publicite".
MENU 1. 413mm x 310mm. 4to. 4p. On the front is a lovely drawing of an Edwardian gentleman in tails and top hat kissing the hand of an equally elegant lady. Amusingly there are two dogs in the middle politely sniffing each other. Signed by the artist Georges Redon. At the bottom is a pink ribbon with a cardboard seal. On page three surrounded by an delicately etched Art Nouveau border is a New Years Eve menu (Reveillon) for 1913-14. On the bottom right hand corner is a little box with the words Carlton Hotel and Restaurant London. Large menu with the paper slightly age browned. MENU 2. 390 x 252mm. Dated 24th Avril 1913. This is an original 2 page folded cardboard menu titled "Publicite" for an Annual Grand Banquet at the Carlton Hotel with the front illustrated by Georges Redon.
 On the bottom right hand is printed : La Publicite Lumineuse, with Georges Redon signature dated '13'. It has been folded for storage, with a crease across the middle. An interesting and unusual menu. Overall two nice and very scarce items of Escoffier ephemera, housed in a cardboard folder covered in marbled paper with a red paper label.
- The First World War began on 28 July 1914 and lasted until 11 November 1918. More than 9 million combatants and 7 million civilians died as a result of the slaughter. This 1st MENU of 1913/14 was the last New Year's Eve when many friends seated at the same tables, and partaking of this special dinner of nine courses, would conceivably, never see each other again. With hindsight, the poignancy of this night of celebration, is one of the reasons that makes this Escoffier menu stand out. The 2nd MENU is an unusual Escoffier banquet menu of nine courses also designed and painted by Redon, and depicting a very surreal image of a winged woman on top of very high building about to take off on an adventure of mystery. Above the menu is a little explanation, informing that the occasion is publicity for a Chambre Syndicale. Each corporation or trade has it’s own Chambre syndicale, similar to trade unions taking care of the interests and members of their related associations. This Grand Annual Banquet was under the Chairmanship of Mons.Alfred Masse who was Minister of Trade, Industry, Posts and Telegraphs from March 22 to December 9, 1913 in the Government of Louis Barthou. Georges Redon (1869 – 1943) was a painter and lithographer. In the 1920s, he created and became famous for a series of charming images depicting little boys urinating. Because of today's concerns about paedophilia such images are no longer widely distributed, subsequently, it isn't easy to find any of Redon's famous "Pipi" works anymore. Many times Redon’s other pictures and artwork also conveyed a lot of humour, as is apparent in the first menu. He also created artwork for many food labels including biscuits and Chocolat Escoffier. Perhaps unsurprisingly, these two Carlton Hotel commissions hint at a strong professional collaboration between the two men. These very elegant, large menus from Escoffier's time at the Carlton (1899 - 1919), are fine collectors items. Definitely a cut above the norm, as the Artist and the Chef are both already famous, each within their own chosen fields of expertise.

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Information

Ephemera category
ref number: 11181

Acton.   Eliza     - One of the best written English cookery books.
Modern Cookery
In all its branches; Reduced to a system of easy practice, For the use of private families. In a series of receipts which have been strictly tested, and are given with the most minute exactness. By Eliza Acton. Illustrated with engravings on Steel and numerous Woodcuts. Fourteenth Edition to which are added directions for carving. London: Longman, Brown, Green, and Longmans, Paternoster Row. 1853.
8vo. Half Title. Frontispiece. Title Page. Dedication Page. [1] p1. Preface. [viii - xlviii] 8 plates. (plate 1 is the frontispiece) [1] 2-608 plus 18 pages of advertisements. Half tan calf, green cloth boards with tan calf corners and gilt lines. Spine with raised bands and gilt lines, 2 black labels with gilt lettering. Some even browning and a some foxing through-out, overall an OK copy.
- Elizabeth 'Eliza' Acton, an English poet and cook, produced and aimed this cookbook at the domestic reader rather than the professional cook or chef. In it she introduced the now-universal practice of listing the ingredients and suggested cooking times with each recipe. Isabella Beeton's bestselling 'Book of Household Management' of 1861 was closely modeled on it. Elizabeth David rated it one of the best nineteenth century cookery books, and television cook Delia Smith is quoted as having called Acton "the best writer of recipes in the English language". 'Modern Cookery' long survived her, remaining in print until 1914 and available more recently in facsimile reprint. Acton was born April 17th 1799 in Battle, Sussex, the eldest of the five children of Elizabeth Mercer and John Acton, a brewer. The family moved to Suffolk shortly after her birth, and there she was raised. At the age of seventeen she and another woman opened a school for girls in Claydon, near Ipswich, which remained open for four years. Her health was precarious and she spent some time in France where she is rumoured to have had an unhappy love affair. She published her Poems in 1826 after returning home and they enjoyed some small success. She subsequently published some single, longer poems, but it was her 'Modern Cookery' of 1845 that garnered her the widest acclaim. Shortly after its publication she relocated to London, where she worked on her next and final book, 'The English Bread Book' of 1857. Along with recipes and a scholarly history of bread-making, this volume contained Acton's strong opinions about adulterated and processed food. Acton, her health never strong, died in February 13th, 1859, and was buried in Hampstead, North London.

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Information

Antiquarian category
ref number: 10911

Acton.   Eliza     - In very bright original condition.
Modern Cookery
FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES BY ELIZA ACTON NEW EDITION LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. 39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON NEW YORK AND BOMBAY 1897
151 x 172mm. 1 fep. [1] Frontispiece (plate 1) Title page. [1] (1)iv-viii Preface. (1)x Vocabulary of terms. (1)xii-xxvii Table of Contents. [1] (1)xxx-xlii Introductory Chapters. [1] 7p Plates. [1] (1)2-622. (1)624-643 Index. [1] 40p Classified catalogue of general literature published by Longmans, Green & Co. Engravings throughout the text. Clean and crisp original tan cloth covers embossed in red and black. Very slightly bumped corners. Occasional light marking to some margins, otherwise very clean.
- Elizabeth 'Eliza' Acton, an English poet and cook, produced and aimed this book at the domestic reader rather than the professional cook or chef. Elizabeth David rated it one of the best written nineteenth century cookery books. It also has numerous fine illustrations throughout the text. Although it is a rather late edition (the first was printed - 1845) it is none the less a very desirable copy due to the very clean original condition.

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Information

Antiquarian category
ref number: 11115

Pellaprat.   Henri-Paul     - An interesting book of its time.
Modern Culinary Art.
THE BEST FRENCH AND FOREIGN COOKERY * COOKERY - PASTRY - SIMPLE CONFECTIONARY *** ENTREMETS - ICES - JAMS **** HOME PRESERVES - DRINKS - ETC. Reputed dishes of foreign cookery - Service of table - Decoration with flowers - Service of wines - Choice and knowledge of foods. Cutting of meats - Dinners * 50 MENUS OF DINNERS, BIRTHDAY, FEASTS, WEDDINGS, ETC. MENUS FOR DIFFERENT DIETS - CURES OF FRUITS * WORK CONTAINING MORE THAN 700 PAGES, 530 OF TEXT, 3,500 recipes clearly stated and necessary explanations 207 illustrated and coloured pages of 480 different dishes 48 pages illustrated in black. by Henri-Paul Pellaprat. Headmaster of the Culinary schools of Officier de L'Instruction Publique et du Merite Agricole Laureat hors concours of the culinary exhibitions. Head editor of corporative works in Paris. Author of several professional books. DEDICATED BY (3 facsimile signatures) E. Herbodeau Chef de cuisine Carlton Hotel, London. (unreadable signature) Chairman of the Cooks Association in Paris. (unreadable signature) Culinary Author. (one long horizontal line) COMPTOIR FRANCAIS DU LIVRE 115, Rue du Foubourg-poissonniere, PARIS [IX]
FIRST ENGLISH EDITION 1937. 4to. 268 x 198 x 60mm. 2feps. Half-title. Verso - Work Plan. Title page. Verso - Exhibitions entered. 5-8 Letters of congratulation. p9 Introduction. [1] 11-719. [1] 721-745(1) Index. 2feps. Half red morocco and marbled boards with large red morocco tips. Spine with raised bands, elaborate gilt tooling and lettering. Excellent condition.
- This book has to be included in a collection of cookery books representative of the progress of cookery thro' the ages. The period between the great wars was an interesting one. Wikipedia informs: "Despite the relatively short period of time, the period represented an era of significant changes worldwide. Petroleum-based energy production and associated mechanisation expanded dramatically leading to the Roaring Twenties, a period of economic prosperity and growth for the middle class in North America, Europe, Asia and many other parts of the world. Automobiles, electric lighting, radio broadcasts and more became common among populations in the developed world. The indulgences of the era subsequently were followed by the Great Depression, an unprecedented worldwide economic downturn that severely damaged many of the world's largest economies". In the UK, between the Armistice of 11th November 1918 and the resumption of pan-European hostilities with Nazi Germany’s genocidal expansionism, the British economy struggled and unemployment was rife. The nation embraced new attitudes, such as welcoming the BBC to the airwaves but also witnessing civil war in Ireland. But the progress was anchored to an ailing economy. Some London restaurants and hotels flourished. Notably; the famous Rosa Lewis at the Cavendish Hotel and her mentor Escoffier at the Carlton Hotel, who retired on 1919. To be succeeded very ably by Eugene Hebodeau. Claridges, the Savoy and the Ritz Hotels were keeping and improving their reputations. Other notable eateries were Kettners in Soho, Rules in Maiden Lane, the great fish restaurant Masion Prunier at St James and a few others that also flourished. Food supplies and fresh produce were poor and dominated by cost and non-availability. It was not until Elizabeth David's books of the 1950's, with their beguiling prose that British people started to wake up to a better diet. To now view Pellaprat's thick book first published in 1937, is to see past the title 'Modern Culinary Art', and understand the illusion. One can see why elaborate decoration of dishes is necessary. This was not fraud but serious, very hard-working Chefs try to lift the gloom and present some fantasy. In these days of super abundant produce, spices and rare exotic foods from everywhere, backed up by televised food and cookery shows and supported by glossy printed productions, one needs to read the title page of Pellaprat's book and see its ambitious aims. Then it can be understood as a noble effort.

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Information

Modern category
ref number: 11329

Eales.   Mary     - With the first recipe for ice cream
Mrs. Mary Eales's Receipts
CONFECTIONER to her late MAJESTY Queen ANNE. LONDON: Printed for J. BRINDLEY, Bookseller, at the King's Arms in New Bond-Street, and Bookbinder to Her Majesty and His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales; and R. MONTAGU at the General Post-Office, the Corner of Great Queen-Street, near Drury-Lane, MDCCXXXIII.
12mo. 1fep. [1] Title Page with printers device. 6p 'Contents' (1)2-100. 4p 'Other Books' advertisements. 1fep. A printers device in a line at the end of every recipe. Fully bound in dark brown contemporary calf. Spine with gilt lettering and raised bands. Some dusting and aging to all pages and very slight foxing to last two pages. A good copy of a very scarce book.
- This small book of a hundred pages is very simple, but quite elegant, with a nicely balanced and laid out title page. It is the first English cookery book to have a recipe for ice cream (pp. 92-93) Although the recipe gives no quantities nor preparation notes, and is basically cream, frozen solid (with sugar or not, with fruit of your choice, or not) there is much more emphasis on the freezing method. At the end of the recipe there is also instructions on freezing fruit juices and lemonade. More of a kid's ice-lolly than a sorbet. The first edition appeared in 1718. All copies of Mary Eales's book are much sought after and snapped up quickly when they occasionally appear on the market.

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Information

Antiquarian category
ref number: 10947

Pennell.   Elizabeth Robins     - A limited edition of 500 & a signed letter.
My Cookery Books
by Elizabeth Robins Pennell. The verso states 'This 1983 edition limited to 500 copies. this is number 54.'
174 x 248mm. Front and back paste-downs and endpapers, in bottle green paper. 1fep with a tipped in note hand-written by Pennell on the verso. Title page. 2p Forward by Mike McKirdy of ‘CooksBooks’. [1] 15p Index of Authors and Titles. [1] Facsimile of original Title page. [1] (1)vi-x Introduction. (1)xii Illustrations. Half Title. [1] My Cookery Books 2-171. [1]. Original quarter bound green cloth with marbled boards. Paper printed label on spine. The tipped in hand-written postcard by Pennell with her messy writing style reads – “I must send at least a good to say “Thank You” for I think it so good of you to remember the Oatcake sounds very good, but I am not sure if the ----- ------ will ---- to it. However, we shall see! E R Pennell 25.2.17. A scarce item in excellent condition.
- Elizabeth Robins Pennell, born February 21, 1855 was an American author. She was the wife of American artist, illustrator and fellow author, Joseph Pennell, whom she married in June 1884. He provided the illustrations for many of her books. They rebuked the staid Victorian sensibilities of their times. After an eyebrow-raising marriage in 1884, offending both his Quaker family and her Catholic family, they raised more eyebrows by tri-cycling through France, the Alps, and Italy. Elizabeth sat in the sidecar-like seat, Joseph perched on the high seat. Pennell would go on to author over twenty-five books, some of which are now in print again. She also wrote articles for The Atlantic Monthly and newspapers, including a food column—“The Wares of Autolycus”—for London’s The Pall Mall Gazette. Nothing in her background suggested that Elizabeth Pennell would become one of the world’s best-known cookbook collectors. She collected rare cookbooks for more than 27 years and wrote this intriguing bibliographical essay about them, which was first published in 1903. Her other famous Culinary work is the ‘The Feasts of Autolycus: the Diary of a Greedy Woman’ - first edition 1898. The Pennells frequented cafés in France and Italy, with their many artist friends. The European café culture, contributed enormously to her culinary education, preparing her for writing her food columns. Because she couldn’t wield a saucepan with ease when she started writing her food column, one of the Pennells’ friends, publisher William E. Henley, saved her by giving her a copy of Alexander Dumas’s Dictionnaire de la Cuisine. With the acquisition of Dumas’s book, Pennell marveled, “It was with something of a shock that I woke one morning and found myself a collector of cookery books.” And when she passed up a new dress for a rare first edition of “good old Hannah Glasse,” she knew she was a serious collector At one point, Pennell owned over 1,000 rare cookbooks. Her glee over the range of her collection comes out in this book where she writes – ‘If it be a mistake to collect, at least I have collected so well that I have yet to find the collection of cookery books that can equal mine. It may be put to shame when I consult M. Georges Vicaire’s Bibliographie Gastronomique (1890), with its twenty-five hundred entries, especially as M. Vicaire’s knowledge of the English books on the subjects is incomplete, and his ignorance of the American exhaustive, - and he has never heard of Miss Leslie, poor man’. Pennell also owned a copy, published in 1498, of De Re Culinaria, by the third century Roman gastronome who called himself Apicius. It is thought to have been the first cookbook in the Western world. The great collector is being re-found and appreciated due to the re-publishing of some of her work. She died in New York City in February of 1936. Below is a photograph portrait from the Victoria & Albert Museum of Elizabeth Robins Pennell, taken crica 1890, by Frederick Hollyer (1837-1933)

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Information

Modern category
ref number: 11094

HOWLAND.   E.A.    
NEW ENGLAND ECONOMICAL HOUSEKEEPER
AND FAMILY RECEIPT BOOK. BY MRS E.A. HOWLAND. STEREOTYPE EDITION MONTPELIER: PUBLISHED BY E.P. WALTON & SONS. 1845.
12mo. 185x113mm. 1fep. Half Title. On verso – Frontispiece of kitchen scene with a smoking & baking drum in the middle of the kitchen floor. Title page. On verso: Entered according to an Act of Congress, in the year 1845, by E.A. HOWLAND. 1p. Preface and advertisement. (1)11-12 Index. (1)14-108. Bound in at the back is a small booklet titled ‘Mrs Winslow’s Domestic Receipt Book’ for 1876. It has yellow paper covers and 32 pages. In good condition. 1fep. Rebound in full dark brown cloth with the original chipped paper cover tipped onto the front board. Internally age browned and quite dusty with some water staining. A quite scarce, fairly early American edition.
- This copy has a confusing half title stating it is Walton’s second edition of 1848. The frontis is on the verso of the half title. The title page opposite states 1845. Lowestien offers a first edition of 1844, with 88 pages. She also holds another 1845 - second edition, printed at Worcester. She also records this second of 1845, printed at Montpelier. Frustratingly, it does not clarify which are the first and second issues. Lowestien’s last entry is also a stereotype, printed at Rochester in 1853, again not clarifying which edition it is. Bitting holds an 1848 edition of 108 pages, copyrighted in 1845. Bitting cites Lincoln: 1st, 1844; 2nd 1845; Stereotyped editions are 1846, 1847, 1848. Bitting also informs us that the [E.A.] Howland is in fact Esther Allan.

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Information

Antiquarian category
ref number: 11159