Oxford.   Arnold Whitaker     - with a tipped-in letter signed by Oxford
Notes from a Collector's Catalogue
With a Bibliography of English Cookery Books, By A. W. Oxford. London: Messrs. JOHN and EDWARD BUMPUS. Limited, 350, Oxford Street. 1909.
FIRST EDITION 1909. On the first blank, a tipped in one page letter written and signed by Oxford. [1] Title page. [1] 1p Contents. [1] (1)2-116. 1p with printers info. [1] 2 feps. With original very clean grey cardboard boards with black ink title on the front. A cream cloth spine lightly browned. Half the original label missing. Internally a very clean, tight binding and untrimmed. Overall a very good copy in the original state. A very scarce item especially in this condition and with the signed letter.
- Dr. Arnold Whitaker Oxford was born at Keynsham in 1854, and graduated from Oxford University. He died on May. 30 1947 at the age of 93 after enjoying a long medical career. At one time he was resident at Charing Cross Hospital. He wrote quite a few books. Some on Freemasons but the better known on cookery. Oxford was an inveterate and odd collector. He started with playing cards and their accessories, and among many other collecting fevers he amassed collections of old silver, stay busks, knitting needle sheaths, domestic implements, seals and writing materials. diaries and engravings, religious objects, Egyptian antiquities, calendars, clocks and finally the items that fired him up the most: cookery books. He wrote two cookery bibliographies that are much used by collectors. This one -- 'Notes from a Collectors Catalogue' and the more comprehensive ' English Cookery Books to the Year 1850' On page 40 of the 'Notes from a Collectors Catalogue' there is a very good list of English books on Cookery and Carving up to the year 1699. Listing not only Oxford's collection, but also the holdings of the Bodleian, the British Museum, and the Cambridge and Patent Office libraries. At the back is also an STC of Cookery Books from 1700. The handwritten letter by Oxford is in his small 'hard to read' style states (as far as I can make out) -- 'July 2.19.08 Dear Sir I hear you bought lot 68 at Sothebys on June 25. 1908. I should be most obliged if you would let me see 'The Court & Country Cook' at home if ------. I cant come up and see it myself as I have been in bed for weeks. I am writing to present you with a book of mine as you will see from it on page 97 ----- I must want the ----. Y faithfully a.w. oxford.' (then written & underlined in another hand) --'Entered 3.7.09'. The cookbook 'The Court & Country Cook' referred to above by Oxford can be seen on this site - item #11120. This is a translation into English of Massialot’s two famous books, 'Nouveau cuisinier royal et bourgeois' and 'Nouvelle instruction pour les confitures'. As this book was printed in 1702. One wonders whether Oxford had already seen a copy and wanted to re-check some details for his Collector's Catalogue of 1909, or this was his first sight of a very rare book.

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Modern category
ref number: 11093

MASSIALOT.   FRANCOIS     - With the bookplate of Anton Mosimann
NOUVELLE INSTRUCTION POUR LES CONFITURES,
LES LIQUEURS, ET LES FRUITS; Ou l’on apprend a’ confire toutes; sortes de Fruits, tant secs que liquides; & divers ouvrages de Sucre qui sont du fait des Officiers & Confiseurs; avec la maniere de bien ordonner un Fruit. Suit du Nouveau Cuisinier Royal & Bourgeois, egalement utile aux Maitres d’Hotels & dans les Familles, pour scavoir ce qu’on sert de plus a’la mode dans les Repas. NOUVELLE EDITION. Revue, corrigee, & beaucoup augmentee, Avec de nouveaux Desseins de Tables. (Printer’s device) Du Fonds de Cl. Prudhomme. A PARIS, AUPALAIS, Chez SAUGRAIN Fils, Grand’ Salle, du cote’ de la Cour des Aydes, a’la Providence. M.DCC.XL. AVEC PRIVILEGE DU ROY. (With some Ms. writing not affecting the printed text).
12mo. Marbled paste-down and end-paper. [1] 1fep. Title page. [1] 6pp Preface. 4pp Table des Chapitures. 4pp Approbation. (1)2-518. 36pp Table des Matieres. 6pp Catalogue des Livres. Fep possibly lacking. Marbled paste-down and end-paper. With two folding plates of table settings with sweets displayed. Contemporary full dark brown speckled calf with raised bands and elaborate French gilt tooling in the compartments. With a black label with gilt border and writing. The corners of the boards slightly rubbed. With a nice patina. Internally very clean. A nice copy.
- François Massialot, born in Limoges, 1660, died in Paris, 1733. He was a French chef who served as chef de cuisine (officier de bouche) to various illustrious personages, including Philippe I, Duke of Orléans, the brother of Louis XIV, and his son Philippe II, Duke of Orléans, who was first duc de Chartres then the Regent, as well as the duc d'Aumont, the Cardinal d’Estrées, and the marquis de Louvois. His ‘Nouveau Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois’ first appeared, anonymously, as a single volume in 1691. His other cookbook, ‘Nouvelle Instruction pour les Confitures, les Liqueurs et les Fruits’ appeared, also anonymously, in 1692, and reprinted several times in the eighteenth century. Massialot describes himself in his preface as "a cook who dares to qualify himself royal",... and it is not without cause, for the meals which he describes..."have all been served at court or in the houses of princes, and of people of the first rank." An innovation in Massialot's book was the alphabetical listing of recipes, a step toward the first culinary dictionary. Meringues make their first appearance under their familiar name with Massialot, who is also credited with Crême Brulée, in which the sugar topping was melted and burnt with a special dedicated red-hot fire iron. Another first with Massialot is two recipes in which chocolate is an ingredient: in a sauce for wigeon and in a sweet custard. Until then, chocolate was consumed solely as a drink. Massialot's works were translated into English as ‘The Court and Country Cook' 1702, and were often reprinted.

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Information

Antiquarian category
ref number: 11103

NUTT.   Frederick     - A superlatively rare find
Nutt's own signed manuscript recipe book -- circa 1789.
The manuscript is in 5 approximately even sections with one fifth of the total pages blank: 1st section -- 214 numbered receipts with an index. 2nd section -- 59 numbered receipts with an index. 3rd section -- 9 pages of English spelling & shorthand studies. 4th section -- 69 pages of unnumbered receipts; mainly sweets, wines, cordials and pickles. No index. Frederick Nutt’s signature is on the very first page and in the 2nd section, above recipe # 42, for Currant Jelly. There is a date in the 4th section of June 10th 1826. The first section is almost the same as the 1st printed edition of Nutt’s 'Complete Confectioner' of 1789; It is almost identical in recipe sequence, recipe content and index. Out of 237 recipes in the 1st edition, there are only 44 recipes out of sequence in the manuscript. Most of the 44 recipes can be found in the 2nd section of the manuscript. The 2 biggest anomalies in the 1st section index are - # 1 -- the block of 6 ‘Cordials’ starting with recipe # 182. They are not present in the index of ‘The Complete Confectioner’. Anomaly # 2 – in ‘The Complete Confectioner’ there are 7 recipes in the chapter ‘Fruits Preserved in Brandy’ (recipe # 180) -- that are not in the 1st section of the manuscript, but scattered in the 2nd section. This is without doubt, Frederick Nutt’s own manuscript recipe book -- circa 1789, which he used to publish the 1st edition of his 'Complete Confectioner'.
16mo The manuscript measures 159 x 65 mm. The book is dis-bound with back board present. The text block is tight. There are a couple of pages loose. All pages are age browned. The text is small, neat, legible and in Nutt's handwriting throughout. Preserved in a brown cloth covered hand tied, folding sleeve. All held in a fine modern full tan calf clamshell box. Raised bands on spine with gilt lines and blind tooling in the compartments. 2 labels - one red, one green with gilt lettering. The boards edged with gilt lines.
- Although Frederick Nutt did not add his name to his famous book, 'The Complete Confectioner', it is understood that it was out of respect for another famous confectioner, Domenico Negri, at the 'Pot and Pineapple' shop in Berkley Square, where Nutt had been formally apprenticed. This probably means that many of the recipes contained in this manuscript and 'The Complete Confectioner' are from the 'Pot and Pineapple' as well as his later places of employment. All conscientious apprentices would keep a journal of all recipes seen and done, as they went about learning their trade. As can be seen in this detailed manuscript, in this respect Nutt was no exception, giving one a sense of a very diligent craftsman. One aspect of the manuscript that it is quite startling is how little editing happened between the manuscript (see the detailed description of this item above) and the published first edition of 'The Complete Confectioner'(see item 10909 below}. Compared to today's multi-faceted approach and effort needed to get a successful cookery book onto the market, the manuscript and the subsequent book, surprise and amaze by their simplicity.

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Antiquarian category
ref number: 10908

Manuscript Receipts   - the Winstanley family.     - with an excellent provenenance.
Old Braunston Hall, Leicestershire.
Three vellum bound volumes dated from the 17th, 18th and 19th Centuries.
Volume 1. 182x120mm. dated 1659. Volume 2. 207x107mm. dated 1772. Volume 3. 195x158mm. dated 1844. ---- VOL.1: - On paste- down, the name of C[lemont] Winstanley, April 1659. Written in two hands in black and brown ink, in a slightly messy script. The first 39 pages are mixed receipts in medicinal, cookery, wine and veterinary. The next 25 pages are blank. The last 12 pages at the back are written upside down to the front. They consist of very interesting lists recording the distribution of fish from one pond to another. there are four dates: 1790, 1799, 1805, 1806. Some pages have been cut and removed from the front and back of the book. VOL. 2: - The front paste-down states this book belongs to T.Parkyns her book, October 3rd, 1772. At the back there is also an inventory of Mrs Winstanely's linen dated, July 21st, 1788. The first 104 pages are daily shopping lists in a fairly messy script. The next are 4 blanks then 10 pages of cookery receipts. VOL. 3: - The front paste-down has in bold ink - Mrs Pochin's Receipt Book. It also states intriguingly in ink, another name and date - Mrs Binley, 1651. Before marriage to Ralph George Pochin (also known as ‘George’) of Barkby Hall, Leicestershire. Mrs Pochin had been Anna Jane Winstanley. The book probably belonged to, and was inherited from either her mother or mother-in-law, as the recipe on page 82 is dated 1844, 18 years before she was born. The other date of 1651 probably came from a very early branch of the Pochin or Winstanely families called Binley. (further research has not solved the puzzle). The first 82 pages are filled with recipes in a neat longhand script. Most of them have names attached with many attributed to Mrs Smith and a few to Mrs G. Pochin (Anna Jane Winstanley). The rest of the pages, a little over half are blank. There are two dates of 1807 within the text and a last date of 1844 in the last written recipe. There is also another undated, loose 32 page manuscript, in a very neat but earlier script in faded brown ink. The pages are also slightly bigger (approx 10mm all round) and more age browned than the book indicating it came from another much earlier family cookery manuscript, very possibly pre-dating the first volume. One of the recipes is attributed to Mrs Winstanley and another to Mrs M. Pochin. Given the variance between the two dates of 1651-1844, indicating these recipe books were in use for a minimum of 193 years, with the dis-bound manuscript pages indicating even earlier.
- All three volumes were the property of the Winstanely Family of Old Hall, Braunstone, and the Pochin Family of Barkby Hall, both in Leicestershire. Book 1. was the property of Clemont Winstanely. Baptised, January 15th. 1644-1672. Book 2. belonged to Jane Parkyns who was married to a later Clement Winstanley, born 1739, died 1808. Jane herself died one year before in 1807. Book 3. belonged to Anna Jane Pochin (nee Winstanley) born 1862, died 1910. Her brother James died unmarried so for the first time the succession went to his sister. She had married Ralph George Pochin of Barkby Hall, Sheriff of Leicestershire who had also been a Commander RN. The Winstanleys’ came to Braunstone in the mid 17th century. James Winstanley (the father of Clement) purchased the estate from the executors of the Hastings family after the death of Henry Hastings’ in 1649, for the sum of £6,000. A quitclaim in 1651 gave him freehold interest in the estate of Braunstone. The Winstanley’s played a vital role in determining the future economic and social history of their properties in and around Braunstone and Kirby Muxloe for the next 275 years. They had a reputation for being fair-minded and judicious, holding important roles as leading dignitaries in The Leicester Corporation. Their decisions influenced the lives of the communities of both Braunstone and Leicester. James Winstanely, Clemont's father was a puritan and a lawyer by profession in the service of the Duchy of Lancaster before taking up residence in Braunstone. He and his wife Catherine had three children. James was a member of Grey’s Inn and the Recorder of Leicester, a position he held until his failure to conform in 1662. While in office he Proclaimed Oliver Cromwell as Lord Protector. He died in 1666 and the estate passed to his eldest son Clement. Clement like his father was a member of Grays Inn and his wife was also called Catherine. Clement died in 1672 and was buried in the family vault under the alter of the 12th century church of St. Peter’s in Braunstone village. Their eldest son James became the third Winstanley to inherit the estate. He was also a member of Grays Inn and M.P. for Leicester. James married Frances, daughter of James Holt of Castleton and their only son, also named James, took over on the death of his father in 1719. He was elected to the post of High Sheriff of Leicester and married his cousin Mary Prideaux. In 1750 he bored for coal near the lakes on Braunstone Park, hoping to cash in on the lucrative trade. But one night after two weeks of hard work by his estate hands, saboteurs, thought to be from the Leicestershire Colliers, filled the bore hole with rocks and stones. With his attempt to find coal thwarted he never continued with the venture. He died in 1770. James was succeeded by his son, another Clement. In 1775 he commissioned the local architect and builder William Oldham (who later became the Lord Mayor of Leicester) to construct the present Braunston Hall . The design typical of the period, a solid Georgian residence. (See image 1. below) The Hall was built on a rise with views overlooking Charnwood forest and set in one hundred acres of fine parkland. Clement also held the Office of High Sheriff of Leicester and in 1774 a remarkable procession took place. It was the custom to accompany the Judge to the Assizes Court at the Leicester Castle. The procession left from Braunstone Hall in military fashion. Thirty gentlemen wearing blue coats with crimson collars, white waistcoats and breeches formed the main escort, with a further 400 horsemen in attendance. The spectacle drew large crowds of bystanders who cheered them on their way. His wife was Jane Parkyns (the owner of the second volume) sister of the First Baron Rancliffe of Bunny, Nottinghamshire. He died in 1808. Jane had died one year before. The next to become heir was their eldest son Clement, J.P. Lieutenant – Colonel of the Leicestershire Militia from 1802-9. He was also the Chairman of the Leicester and Swanington Railway, which opened in 1832. He died unmarried in 1855. The estate passed to his nephew James Beaumont, High Sheriff of Leicester. He was only thirty when he mysteriously disappeared while abroad in Europe. When a body was found floating in the river Moselle in Germany the Winstanley family hired the private detective “Tanky Smith” to go to Germany to identify the body. A butler from the hall accompanied him and on the evidence of some clothing and a pair of cufflinks the body was identified as James Beaumont. The year was 1862. James was unmarried so for the first time the succession went to a female member of the family, his sister, Anna Jane Pochin - nee' Winstanley (owner of the third volume). Anna Jane was married to Ralph George Pochin of Barkby Hall in Leicestershire. The Pochin family were also long established in Leicestershire, having lived in Barkby Hall since 1604. The Pochin Family Tree extends from the early 13th. Century and claims to cover 23 generations. There are still large gaps, with many Leicestershire Pochins missing. In 1904 Anna Jane relinquished the estate in favour of her son Richard Norman Pochin and moved with Ralph to Braunston Hall. Interestingly, Richard Norman Pochin, changed his name by deed poll to Winstanley. In 1911 he extended the south side of Barkby Hall by adding a wing with toilets and bathrooms. It was in 1925 while he, his wife and six children were still in residence that the Leicester Corporation compulsory purchased his land in Braunston for much needed housing. One of their children, Rosemary Philippa Winstanely born in 1914 at Braunstan Hall married Robert Poore. Their son Andrew Phillip Poore, born 1951 and the great (x 7) grandchild of the Clement Winstanley mentioned at the beginning, is the one who gave me these manuscripts. His mother passed away on the 6th Oct. 2006 at Brown Edge, West Malvern, Worcestershire. As an interesting footnote, Andrew Poore's family have a long and well documented history in the West Country. Richard Poore on the death of his brother Herbert Poore, succeeded him to the position of Bishop of Salisbury by 27 June, 1217. During his tenure he helped plan and oversee the construction of the new Salisbury Cathedral as a replacement for the old cathedral at Old Sarum. He also laid out the town of Salisbury in 1219, to allow the workers building the cathedral a less cramped town than the old garrison town of Old Sarum. Richard died on 15 April 1237. He is commemorated with a statue in niche 170 on the west front of the Cathedral he built. NB: I gratefully received an interesting e-mail from Edward Geoff Pochin on May 2011, who corrected me on some erroneous facts I had entered about the Pochin Family tree. Another Pochin - Marian Peacock, also mailed me and told me the sad story of Ralph George Pochin's aunt, an Ann (not Anna) Jane Winstanley who tragically burned to death in her London house in 1847.

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Information

Antiquarian category
ref number: 11157

ROYAL MENU.      
ON BOARD THE ROYAL YACHT 'BRITANNIA'.
Menu: Filet of Red Snapper Fecampoise. (a single small line) Supreme of Chicken with Wild Mushrooms. Salad. (a single small line) Chocolate and Ginger Mousse. Friday 30th May 1997. Tokyo.
173 x 110mm. A white card with on the top left-hand corner, E11R embossed in gilt with gilt embossed crown on top. On the right side is a very nice copy of a painting of 'Britannia' with three sail boats around her. Underneath is a gilt embossed ribbon with 'H.M.Y Britannia' printed inside. then the menu below that and finally the date and location on the bottom. The menu has rounded corners and the edges in gilt. In very good condition. Housed in an orange marbled cardboard folder.
- The Royal Yacht 'Britannia' was launched 16th April 1953, commissioned 11th January 1954. It was in service from 1954 to 11th December 1997, when it was decommissioned. She was the 83rd such vessel since King Charles II acceded to the throne in 1660. This menu printed on the final year of the yacht's service is quite rare.

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Ephemera category
ref number: 11315

Roux.   Albert & Michel     - With both brother's signatures.
On Patisserie.
MICHEL & ALBERT ROUX. (A THIN LINE) PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANTHONY BLAKE (A THIN LINE) A large illustration of cooking equipment. Macdonald Illustrated. With a tipped in 'good-wishes' card from Albert and Michel Roux, signed by each.
Second reprint 1991. 254 x 198mm. 1 marbled fep. Half-Title. The brother's signatures on the verso. Title page. Printer's info. on verso. (1)Dedication page to Jean-Louis Berthet. p6-8 Contents. p9 Forward. p10-19 Introduction. p20-242. p243-245 Glossary. p246-247 Templates. p248-255 Templates. [1] 1 marbled fep. Full of fantastic colour plates of prepared dishes. Blue cloth boards with vibrant dust jacket. Condition as new.
- This book about pastry is largely the story of Michel Roux's career and accomplishment as one of the Master Patissiers of France. Even tho' he followed in the footsteps of his older brother Albert, it was Michel that shone as a Patissier. Every three years the French state organises the most prestigious competition for representatives from 217 professions, assembled into 17 groups comprising among others, such disparate trades as mosaics, ironmongery, sculpture, floral art and of course culinary art; all trades where 'hand and mind' combine. This competition is to achieve the title of 'Meilleur Ouvrier'. This entitles the holder by an official decree, to teach at the highest technical level. Michel achieved after a gruelling competition, that tests every participant to their limit, the title of 'un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France 1976, Patissier-Confiseur'. Thereafter to be considered one of the finest craftsmen in patissierie, in France. This book beyond doubt, reflects that Mastery. It also pays homage to all the friends, colleagues, craftsmen, mentors, and even the lasting influence of his Mother and of course his equally gifted brother, Albert. An incredible book full of full-page photographs, recipes and the history of true master craftsmen.

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Information

Modern category
ref number: 11310

PRUNIER.   MAISON.     Circa 1920's.
PARIS AND LONDON .
Three pieces of Prunier's colourful, marketing cards.
ITEM 1. A nicely designed small menu card for a private party at Maison Prunier 9, RUE DUPHOT, PARIS. - Les Huitres. Filets de Turbot Duglere. Poulet Douwarow. Desserts. Anjou 1908. Fruits. It also has eight signatures in pencil. ITEM 2. A folded six-page Carte-Postale with design for a stamp and address on the back cover. In the four pages inside there is a full take-away menu featuring a [SERVICE DE VILLE] Detailing a list of headings, offering, COQUILLAGES ET HUITRES; CAVIAR; CRUSTACES; SALAISONS, FUMAISONS; VINES; GARNUTURES; PLATS FROIDS; PLATS CHAUDS. all with prices two telephone numbers. dated October 1923. ITEM 3. A very nice promotional card detailing Maison Prunier, France; at 9, RUE DUPHOT, PARIS. and 16, AV. VICTOR-HUGO. And Meme Maison, Londres; 72 ST. JAMES STREET.
- ITEM 1. 136 x 89mm. The humorous colourful design on the front has a fish supplier carrying on his head a basket of oysters, a large surprised fish on one arm, and on the other hand, holding up a very big scallop shell already cooking on a bunsen-burner. ITEM 2. 132 x 85mm. This also has a nice colourful design on the front, of a smiling happy fish-supplier in apron and scarf with a basket of oysters on his head. ITEM 3. 133 x 89mm. Very slightly shaved at the bottom with no loss. This also has a nice colourful design on the front, of a fish, lobster and a sea-snail above table with a nicely starched table cloth. All items in very good condition housed in a green marbled cardboard folder.

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Information

Ephemera category
ref number: 11314

Davidson.   Alan (Editor)     - A unique set signed by Alan Davidson
Petits Propos Culinaires
Journals 1-73.
5 clamshell cases - each approx. 210x150x95mm. Each case in half bottle green morocco with green cloth covering. The spine with raised bands, gilt lines and a red morocco gilt lettered label. Each case with a light fawn felt cloth base. The cases are numbered; 1-15, 16-31, 32-48, 49-63, 64-73. Journal #1 is #345 of the first limited edition of 500. Numbers 1-59 and 61-63 are all signed by Alan Davidson. Number 60 is un-signed. Journals 63-73 are all signed by Tom Jaine. In journal #5, there is a letter of apology to Hugo Dunn-Meynell, for a printing mistake by A.D. in an article on Turabi Effendi. The letter is also signed by A.D. In journal #32 there is a page from Kidder's cookbook. In #49 there is a signed compliment slip signed by A.D, and two signed letters from Jenny Macarthur. All the journals as new. A very handsome set.
- Described by the editor Alan Davidson as 'a semi-academic periodical which comes out three times a year and deals with food, cookery and cookery books. Issues run approximately 64 to 72 pages, none occupied by advertisements, and contributors are a mixture of professional writers and amateurs. All issues are illustrated in black and white (reproductions of old engravings and woodcuts, etc.), plus drawings commissioned for PPC. PPC is not a collection of recipes, although most issues contain some of particular interest. These recipes have often been embodied in articles, e.g. by the late Elizabeth David and Richard Olney, both of whom played an important part in founding PPC. Extensive Book Reviews and an item called Notes and Queries are also regular features. The latter provides a forum for reports on research in progress and for posing questions which readers may be able to answer. This set on offer here are in a 'just published' condition. On the inside cover of journal # 1 is a typewritten note that has been tipped in. It states: "You may like to know that a new journal dealing with food, cookery and cookery books has been launched under the above title. The publishers are Prospect Books, a partnership including Elizabeth David, Alan and Jane Davidson, Jillian Norman and Richard Olney. The first edition was a limited edition of 500 copies, published in aid of the Anglo-American Jubilee Appeal of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution. ---- The first issue sold out quickly. The second issue will appear in August. It will also be in aid of charity". It is quite possible that this lot of journals are unique. A.D. told me he had not signed a full set before with the exception of number 60 which is unsigned. This is because the full printed lot of #60 were destroyed in a fire. I was only able to obtain a published copy after A.D. passed away. Number 63 has a written dedication from Alan Davidson. It reads: "I have great pleasure in signing this, the last issue of PPC for which I and my wife were responsible, -- for Robert Hendry, who has been such a good friend to the journal. Alan Davidson". Journals 73 and onwards have been edited & published by Tom Jaine of Prospect Books, Totnes, Devon and they are also signed by him. A wonderful source of all kinds of gastronomic information and research by many enthusiasts and leading culinary writers of the day.

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Modern category
ref number: 11088

Davidson.   Alan (Editor)     Very rare set signed by Alan Davidson & Elizabeth David.
Petits Propos Culinaires.
Journals 1 - 9. And Alan Davidson's 47 page Funeral booklet of essays and recipes.
Approx, 9 x 188 x 134 mm. All booklets as new. Also has the supplement to # 3. Housed in a red cloth covered slipcase with two black labels with gilt text and tooling. Also a fine mint copy of Alan Davidson's Funeral Cookbook. Consisting of 47 pages, and handed out to attendees at his Memorial Service, Chelsea Old Church, London, 19th February, 2004.
- Petits Propos Culinaires [PPC] was launched February 1979. It was described by the editor Alan Davidson [AD] as a semi-academic triannual periodical dealing with all things gastronomic. The initial partners with Elizabeth David [ED] and AD. were eight others. These nine booklets have the signatures of AD and ED. The first issued booklet is a limited edition of 100, of which this one is # 24. As well as being signed by AD. there is also an inscription "For the McKirdys with many thanks for their highly effective sales promotion". Mike and Tessa McKirdy were dealers of books on cookery and gastronomy. They also published much appreciated and anticipated regular catalogues. From AD's inscription we can see that the McKirdys had promoted the PPC publications. These nine booklets have originally come from the McKirdy's collection. Booklets 2, 4, 5, 6, 8 & 9 have signed complimentary slips by AD. inserted for Mike and Tessa. From one of the slips we see the McKirdys had a regular package of twenty of each of the published booklets to sell in their catalogue. Booklet 3 is signed by Elizabeth David [ED] on page nine over an essay titled 'The Harvest of Cold Months'. This was a preview of ED's large book of the same name first published 1994. Booklets 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 are also signed by ED. This set is very unique as I have another set of PPCs (see item # 11088 on this site) and none of them are signed by ED. but are all signed by AD. PPC is a wonderful source of information, essays, notes and bibliographical details by many famous expert contributors, on all the ages of cookery, gastronomy and the authors. Also included is a copy of AD's Funeral Cookbook. A booklet of essays and recipes composed by Davidson as a memento to be handed out to those attending his Memorial Service, Chelsea Old Church, London, 19th February, 2004. The cover depicts the design of the label for the marmalade Alan made every year from his family’s recipe. There is one illustration by Glen Baxter. Davidson came across the idea of the funeral cookbook custom in Thailand, where a person composes a small cookbook before her or his death so that it can be distributed to mourners attending the funeral. Davidson's version starts with a short essay on this subject, followed by recipes for marmalade, Greek chicken and fish, epicure's kidneys, fricased skate, Con's mince, toad in the hole, waterzooi, meat loaf, smothered cabbage, aubergine gratin, fried zucchini, Tabitha Tickletooth's bread and butter pudding, apple crumble tart, trifle, fluffy tapioca pudding, Susan's grape dessert (all these collected from a variety of sources). From a personal point of interest, this very unique set had a immediate impact on me when I found it, not only because of Elizabeth David and Alan Davidson, both of whom I greatly admired, but that of Mike McKirdy whom I considered a friend and now sadly has passed on as well. A treasured item.

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Modern category
ref number: 11282

Brillat-Savarin.   Jean Anthelme     - An important edition illustrated by Bertall.
Physiologie du Gout
PAR BRILLAT SAVARIN, ILLUSTREE Par BERTALL PRECEDE D'UNE NOTICE BIOGRAPHIQUE Par ALPH. KARR.Dessins a part du texte, graves sur acier par Ch. Geoffroy, Gravures sur bois, intercalees dans le texte, par Midderigh. GABRIEL DE GONET, EDITEUR. RUE DES BEAUX-ARTS, 6.
238X160mm. Marbled paste-down and end-paper. 1fep. [1] Frontispiece titled 'Les Sens' (jpeg #3 below). Title page. [1] (1)ii-vii. [2] Engraved portrait of Brillat-Savarin. (1)x Aphorismes. (1)xii-xiv Dialogue. (1)xx-xxiii Preface.[1] (1)2-412. (1)414-416 Table des Mariers. 1fep. [1] Marbled Paste-down and end-paper. With 8 full page, highly amusing steel engraved plates of various culinary scenes, on India paper and many in-text illustrated vignettes. There is minor foxing throughout the text block. Contemporary binding by Barker's of Dercas Terrace, Hammersmith. Quarter brown calf with brown cloth boards and calf tips. Calf edges with gilt lines. Spine with raised bands and all compartments with French style gilt tooling and a red label with gilt lettering. All edges marbled. Overall the binding is solid and in good condition.
- Charles Albert Constant Nicolas Arnoux Limoges Saint-Saens, alias: Bertall, was born 18 December 1820 at Paris and died on 24 March 1882. An illustrator , cartoonist and writer, he is known for being one of the most prolific illustrators of the nineteenth century and one of the pioneers of photography . Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin born on April 1755, Belley, Ain, died 2nd February 1826, Paris. He was a French lawyer and politician, and gained fame as an epicure and gastronome: Grimod and Brillat-Savarin between them were the two writers who effectively founded the whole genre of the gastronomic essay. His famous work, ‘Physiologie du gout’ (The Physiology of Taste) , was published in December 1825, two months before his death. The full title is ‘Physiologie du Goût, ou Méditations de Gastronomie Transcendante; ouvrage théorique, historique et à l'ordre du jour, dédié aux Gastronomes parisiens, par un Professeur, membre de plusieurs sociétés littéraires et savante’. This great classic of Gastronomy is a witty and authoritative compendium on the art of dining that has never been out of print since it was first published. This 1848 copy, illustrated by Bertall is considered a very important version. The philosophy of Epicurus lies behind every page. The body of the work, though often wordy and sometimes aphoristic and axiomatic, has remained extremely important and sought after. It has often been analyzed and quoted through the years since his death. In a series of meditations that have the rhythm of a different age, of leisured reading and a confident pursuit of educated pleasures, Brillat-Savarin discourses and writes on the pleasures of the table, which he considers a science. His French models were the stylists of the Ancien Régime: Voltaire, Rousseau, Buffon and d'Aguesseau et al. Aside from Latin, he was well versed in five modern languages, and when the occasion suited, wasn't shy of parading them: he never hesitated to borrow a word when French failed him, like the English word 'sip', until he rediscovered the then obsolete verb 'siroter'. The simplest meal satisfied Brillat-Savarin, as long as it was executed with skill and artistry, which is further elaborated in one of his famous aphorisms: Those persons who suffer from indigestion, or who become drunk, are utterly ignorant of the true principles of eating and drinking

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ref number: 11169