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Francatelli. Charles Elme
The Modern Cook
A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE CULINARY ART IN ALL ITS BRANCHES; COMPRISING IN ADDITION TO ENGLISH COOKERY, THE MOST APPROVED AND RECHERCHE SYSTEMS OF FRENCH, ITALIAN, AND GERMAN COOKERY. ADAPTED FOR THE LARGEST ESTABLISHMENTS AND FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES. CHARLES ELME FRANCATELLI, PUPIL OF THE CELEBRATED CAREME, AND LATE MAITRE-D'HOTEL AND CHIEF COOK TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN. WITH SIXTY ILLUSTRATIONS. ELEVENTH EDITION CAREFULLY REVISED, AND CONSIDERABLY ENLARGED. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY SON, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. Publishers in Ordinary to Her Majesty.
Undated but printed 1853. Marbled paste-down and endpaper. [2] Frontisepiece of a young Francatelli, slightly foxed and laid down on a strip to re-inforce the edges and with the gutter re-inforced. Title page age browned. [1] 1p Dedication. [1] 2p Preface. (1)-xii Contents. (1)xiv-xv Glossary. [1] (1)2-474. (1)476-538 Bills of Fare. (1)540-552 Index. [1] Marbled back paste-down and endpaper. Dark blue half calf with dark blue cloth boards. The spine slightly sun bleached with raised bands, gilt lines and lettering.
- One of the culinary legends of his time, Charles Elme Francatelli(1805-1877) was an Englishman of Italian ancestry who journeyed to France for the opportunity to work under the legendary Chef Marie Antoine Careme who many call "the architect of French cuisine." Francatelli was revered for his blending of the best of Italian and French cuisine, it wasn't long before he was appointed "Chef de Cuisine" to the Earl of Chesterfield and later to both the Earl of Dudley and Lord Kinnaird. When Francatelli tired of his royal duties he detoured into public life where he seized the reins of the Crockford's Club which was the place to be seen in the mid 1800's. He later moved on to take a turn at the St. James's Club where he attracted the attention of her Royal Highness Queen Victoria who wooed him into her employ. But the public life was in Francatelli's blood and even the Queen could not hold him for long. He moved on to become the 'chef en charge' at the Coventry House Club, then went off to put in seven years as the chef de cuisine to the Reform Club, and had stints at the St. James's Hotel, Berkeley Street, Piccadilly, and finished his career at the Freemasons' Tavern where he remained until just before his death. The Times attributed to him, the following side-note; "A chef to nobility and a cook for the common man" Although Francatelli had the experience, charm and flourish necessary to please the highest of Royalty, his greatest love was the simple act of cooking. In 1845, he published his first book "The Modern Cook." in England and in America in the following year. The book sold well on both sides of the Atlantic and was so popular that it went through an amazing twelve editions. In it, he advocated two courses for meals -- a savoury followed by dessert, which is how most everyday eating is done now. Besides "The Modern Cook" Francatelli wrote three other cookery classics; * 1852. A Plain Cookery-Book for the Working Classes (contained over 240 recipes). * 1861. Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's Butler's Assistant. London: Richard Bentley and Son. * 1862. The Royal English and Foreign Confectioner. London: Chapman and Hall.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11029

Dubois. Urbain & Emile Bernard
La Cuisine Classique
VOLUME 1: LA CUISINE CLASSIQUE ETUDES PRATIQUES, RAISONNEES ET DEMONSTRATIVES D'ECOLE FRANCAISE URBAIN DUBOIS & EMILE BERNARD CHEFS DE CUISINE DE LL. MM. L'EMPEREUR ET L'EMPERATRICE D'ALLEMAGNE OUVERAGE ILLUSTRE DE 76 PLANCHES GRAVEES ET UN FRONTISPICE EMBRASSANT DANS SON CADRE TOUTS LES PRESCRIPTIONS THEORIQUES, D'APRES L'ORDRE ET LES PRINCIPES DE LA GRANDE CUISINE En cuisine, en peut briller selon sen aptitude, par le luxe, la variete, le gout parfait, les soins delicats; mais, parmi les qualite indispensables au practicion, nous mettons, en premier ligne, la science organisatrice et la connaissance approfondie de toutes les branches de l'art. TOME PREMIER DIXIEME EDITION PARIS E. DENTU, EDITEUR, PALAIS-ROYAL ET CHEZ TOUS LES PRINCIPAUX LIBRAIRES 1884 DROITS DE TRADUCTION ET REPRODUCTION RESERVES -- VOLUME 2: LA CUISINE CLASSIQUE ETUDES PRATIQUES, RAISONNEES ET DEMONSTRATIVES D'ECOLE FRANCAISE URBAIN DUBOIS & EMILE BERNARD CHEFS DE CUISINE DE LL. MM. L'EMPEREUR ET L'EMPERATRICE D'ALLEMAGNE OUVERAGE ILLUSTRE DE 76 PLANCHES GRAVEES ET UN FRONTISPICE EMBRASSANT DANS SON CADRE TOUTS LES PRESCRIPTIONS THEORIQUES, D'APRES L'ORDRE ET LES PRINCIPES DE LA GRANDE CUISINE En cuisine, en peut briller selon sen aptitude, par le luxe, la variete, le gout parfait, les soins delicats; mais, parmi les qualite indispensables au practicion, nous mettons, en premier ligne, la science organisatrice et la connaissance approfondie de toutes les branches de l'art. TOME SECOND DIXIEME EDITION PARIS E. DENTU, EDITEUR, PALAIS-ROYAL ET CHEZ TOUS LES PRINCIPAUX LIBRAIRES 1884 DROITS DE TRADUCTION ET REPRODUCTION RESERVES.
The 10th Edition; Large 4to. 307x250mm. VOLUME 1: Front paste-down and endpaper marbled. [1] 1fep. Half title. (1)Printers device. Engraved Frontispiece. [1] Title page. Verso with facsimile signature of Dubois. Half title for dedication. [1] Dedication a leurs Majestes de Prusse. [1] (1)x Preface to 1st edition. (1)xii Preface to 2nd edition. (1)xiv Preface to 8th edition. (1)xvi-xviii La Service a la Francaise. (1)xx-lxiv Menus. (1)2-421. [1]424-433 Table des Matieres. [1] 1p Table des Planches. [1] 1fep. Endpaper and back paste-down marbled. With 29 full page planches. Boards marbled with edges very slightly scuffed. Spine with black leather, raised bands and gilt lettering. Internally and externally very clean. VOLUME 2: Front paste-down and endpaper marbled. [1] 1fep. Half title. (1)Printers device. Title page. Verso with facsimile signature of Dubois. (1)2-526. [1]528-537 Table des Matieres. [1] 1p Table des Planches. [1] 1fep. Endpaper and back paste-down marbled. With 48 full page planches. (A total in both volumes of 77 planches). Boards marbled with edges very slightly scuffed. Spine with black leather, raised bands and gilt lettering. Internally and externally very clean. A handsome set of a magnificent cookery books. The fine engraved plates are incomparable.
- 'La Cuisine Classique' first published - 1856. Dubois' and Bernard's great classic, records a progressive step up from the style of French cookery based on the work of Marie Antonin Careme. These were simplifications and refinements (albeit still very complicated) of the early work of Carême. It was practised mainly in embassies, the grand houses of the titled and elite and also the royal palaces of Europe for much of the 19th and first half of the 20th century. The major developments were to replace service à la Française (serving all dishes at once) with service à la Russe (serving meals in courses but still on platters) and to develop a system of cookery which formalized the preparation of dishes with their sauces and garnishes. In its time, it was considered the pinnacle of haute cuisine, and it was a style distinct from cuisine bourgeoise (cuisine for families with cooks) the working-class cuisine of bistros and homes, and the cuisines of the the French provinces. Cuisine classique came under heavy criticism in 1972 from the food critics Henri Gault and Christian Milleau, for its rigidity, and penchant for elaborate, multi-layered preparations and heavily cooked foods, and an often whimsical and cryptic naming scheme for dishes. While restaurants serving cuisine classique are now generally considered stodgy anachronisms (if indeed there are any left) – they were supplanted by dining rooms serving nouvelle cuisine, where from the chef's point of view the biggest difference was serving the whole course on one plate. There has also been a revival of interest in provincial cooking (cuisine du terroir) and newer styles. La cuisine classique has had a decisive impact on cuisine as a whole. The cooking techniques of cuisine classique (but not the final assembly) still form the basis of most culinary educations, and the recipes of Escoffier's -'Le Guide Culinaire' and the combinations of the 'Le Repertoire de la Cuisine' are still used as a vital starting point in cooking versions of the French classics better suited to modern tastes. Those books and guides may not be consulted so much nowadays, but their lasting impact cannot be ignored, as every good French meal served today owes its creation, in large part to those times. It may be argued that there are no absolute original dishes, but rather, what we are served today is an amalgamation and progression of culinary techniques, advances in H&S and refridgeration, improved equipment and market availability since man hunted with spears. Our real debt is to those master cooks who imparted and maintained the highest standards possible and also left behind from their time, a written legacy of their knowledge and craft, that in turn influences and inspires the next generations. These two magnificent volumes from Dubois & Bernard cannot help but amaze; truly a different time.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11030

Hall. T.
The Queen's Royal Cookery:
OR,Expert and ready Way for the Dressing of all Sorts of Flesh, Fish: Either Bak'd, Boil'd, Roasted, Stew'd, Fry'd, Broil'd, Hash'd, Frigasied, Carbonaded, Forc'd, Collard'd, Sous'd, Dry'd, etc. After the Best and Newest Way. With their several Sauces and Salads. And making all sorts of PICKELS. ALSO Making Variety of Pies Pasties, Tarts, Chees-Cakes, Custards, and Creams, etc. WITH The ART of Preserving and Candying of Fruits and Flowers; and making of Conserves, syrups, Jellies, and Cordial Waters. Also making several sorts of English Wines, Cyder, Mead, Metheglin. TOGETHER, With several Cosmetick or Beautifying Waters: And also several sorts of Essences and Sweet Waters, by Persons of the highest Quality. By T. Hall, Free Cook of London. The Second Edition. Lonodn: Printed for C. Bates, at the Sun and Bible in Gilt-spur-street, in Pye-corner: And A. Bettesworth, at the Red Lion on London-Bridge, 1713. Licenses according to Order.
12 mo. Woodcut frontispiece with the head of Queen Anne above three sections. On the recto of the Frontis there is a manuscript note in ink -- ' Elizabeth Lidlow her book 1796 Given by her Grandfather' Title page. 5-6. The Preface. 7-180. 2 feps. A full page woodcut of pies on p.133. The whole text lightly age browned throughout. Contemporary full dark brown calf boards neatly relaid, with a nice patina. The spine is modern dark brown calf with raised bands and gilt lettering. A very scarce book.
- This second edition is very scarce with only a handful of copies located in the US; at Cornell, Kansas State, the Lib. Of Congress and a private owner. In UK there are three recorded; one each in the BL, Cambridge and the Wellcome Institute. Cagle was not able to locate a first and Bitting’s copy is 1730. There were six editions up to 1734. The Queen's Royal Cookery, by T. Hall, was first published in 1709 (with the BL also holding one of only three known). As well as a wide variety of basic culinary recipes, the book contains instructions for preserves, candies, cosmetics and beautifying waters. It is one of a number of books claiming to reveal the secrets of the royal kitchens, a highly fashionable subject during the 17th and 18th centuries. Queen Anne, who reigned from 1702-1714, was a rich source of gossip, and the public seemed to have an endless fascination for any information gleaned from beyond the palace walls. The production of art and literature prospered during Her reign. Throughout this period booksellers churned out popular recipe books, fully aware of the commercial viability of recipes linked to prestigious chefs. Unfortunately many of the books were thrown together by money-making charlatans who had simply filched their material from existing publications. Forty of T. Hall's recipes were taken directly from 'The Closet of the Eminently Learned Sir Kenelm Digby' (1669). Never the less an interesting book with the 17th century styled frontis of three engraved sections; A woodcut portrait of Queen Anne over a working kitchen scene, a pastry kitchen scene and a chymistry (chemistry) scene, which actually looks like a small distillery. Mrs Pennel - p145, describes Hall as a Free Cook of London, with little else known about him. Oxford p52, Cagle p719, Maclean p65.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11031

Francatelli. Charles Elme - A first edition.
THE ROYAL ENGLISH AND FOREIGN CONFECTIONER:
1862 A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE ART OF CONFECTIONARY IN ALL ITS BRANCHES; COMPRISING ORNAMENTAL CONFECTIONARY ARTISTICALLY DEVELOPED; DIFFERENT METHODS OF PRESERVING FRUITS, FRUIT PULPS, AND JUICES IN BOTTLES, THE PREPARATION OF JAMES AND JELLIES, FRUIT, AND OTHER SYRUPS, SUMMER BEVERAGES, AND A GREAT VARIETY OF NATIONAL DISHES; WITH DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING DESSERT CAKES, PLAIN AND FANCY BREAD, CANDIES, BONBONS, COMFITS, SPIRITOUS ESSENCES, AND CORDIALS. ALSO, THE ART OF ICE-MAKING, AND THE ARRANGEMENT AND GENERAL ECONOMY OF FASIONABLE DESSERTS. BY CHARLES ELME FRANCATELLI, PUPIL TO HE CELEBRATED CAREME, AND LATE MAITRE D'HOTEL TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN; AUTHOR OF "THE MODERN COOK," "THE COOKS GUIDE," AND "COOKERY FOR THE WORKING CLASSES." With numerous Illustrations in Chromo-Lithography. LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY. 1862. (The rights of Translaton is reserved.)
FIRST EDITION. 1fep. Half title. [2] Frontispiece of a Brides Cake. Title page. [1] (1)vi-viii Preface. (1)x-xxiii Contents. [1] (1)xxvi-xxviiList of Illustrations. [1] (1)2-396. 4p Bills of Fare. (1)402-422 Index. (1)2-18 Advertisements. Original navy blue cloth with ornate blind tooling and a fresh gilt deice on the front cover. The spine sympathetically relaid with the original cloth and gilt lettering and tooling. slightly darker than the boards. Overall a nice bright clean copy externally and internally with very light foxing to the half title and title pages. This is the scarce 1st edition not usually found in such good condition. There was also a 2nd of 1866 and a 3rd of 1874.
- Although little is written about him today Charles Elme Francatelli (1805-1876) was one of the culinary celebrities of his time. An Englishman of Italian extraction who traveled to France to work under the legendary Antonin Carême the founder of French haute cuisine. Revered for his blending of the best of Italian and French cuisine, Francatelli was regarded as a leading chef in Victorian London and spent most of his career in Britain directing the kitchens of several aristocrats and nobleman. In particular his early career saw him in the employ of the Earl of Chesterfield, Earl of Dudley and Lord Kinnaird at Rossie Priory in Perthshire. In 1840 he was back in London managing the plush and fashionable Crockford's, a successful private club and gaming house on the west side of St James's street. Despite only being at Crockford's for a brief period it was to prove a successful move. Spotted by a steward of the royal household Francatelli was appointed maitre-d'hotel and chief cook in ordinary to the Queen. Although his royal appointment was short it was undoubtedly a highlight in his career. As to why he left is not clear. Some people speculate that it may have been Queen Victoria's lack of enthusiasm for French cuisine or maybe Prince Albert's tendency toward less extravagant culinary preparations. Either way in 1842 Francatelli left his royal duties after serving just one year. His next post saw Francatelli undertake the culinary management of the Coventry House Club, #106 Piccadilly (this became the St James's club in 1869, a gentleman's club that occupied the premises for over 100 years). In 1854 he was appointed chef de cuisine at the Reform Club whose kitchens designed by its first chef Alexis Soyer were described as the greatest in London. Francatelli remained there for seven years. Between 1863 and 1870 he managed the St. James's Hotel in Berkeley Street, and then joined the Freemasons' Tavern in Great Queen Street, a post he held until just before his death in 1876. Although Francatelli had the experience, charm and flourish necessary to please the highest of Royalty, his greatest love was the simple act of cooking. Even though he was able to dress the costliest and elaborate of banquets and despite working for some of the most distinguished of British aristocracy and gentry, Francatelli was known as a culinary economist. Often quoted, he once remarked that "he could feed every day a thousand families on the food that was wasted in London". To this end in 1852 he issued A ‘Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes’, which contained information of practical value to the working classes. This included economical delights such as cow-heel broth, bubble and squeak , sheep's pluck and a pudding made of small birds. Known for his sweet tooth, Francatelli’s fourth book, "The Royal English and Foreign Confectionery Book" - 1862, was to be his last published work. Francatelli died at Eastbourne on 10 Aug. 1876 as one of the fortunate people who lived their lives doing what they loved best.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11032

Kollist. E. J.
French Pastry, Confectionery and Sweets: Continental Dishes
FRENCH PASTRY, CONFECTIONARY AND SWEETS CONTINENTAL DISHES BY E.J. KOLLIST Chef Patissier WITH SEVENTY-SIX HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS (a printer's device) CASSELL & COMPANY LTD. LONDON, TORONTO, MELBOURNE & SYDNEY
FIRST EDITION 1929. 255X165mm. 1fep. Half title. [2] Frontispiece of two Royal Icing Stands. Title Page. Verso with publishing date. v Preface. [1] vii-viii Introduction. ix Guide to Sections. [1] xi-xxvi Contents. xxvii-xxviii list of Illustrations. Section half title. [1] 3-268. 1fep. Original light brown cloth boards with 1/4 red cloth spine with gilt lettering. Externally and internally very clean with light foxing on the blank on back of the frontis. A fine copy not usually found in this condition.
- Based on Kollist's twenty nine years of extensive experience as Chief Patissier and Confectioner at Claridge's and the Savoy hotels in London as well as Confectioner on the Cunard ships Mauretania, Lusitania and Laconia. His book is not confined just to pastry. In total it includes fifteen sections of all the areas of the Patissier’s trade; Paste and Dough, Pastries, Flans and Gateaux, Petit-fours, Confectionery; sugar baskets, spun sugar, toffee, nougats, chocolates etc; English Puddings, Sauces, Souffles, Ices , Sorbets and Bombes, Fruit Dishes, Russian Specialities such as tvoroque, coulibiac and piroshki as well as several plates of decorative ice carving and including seventy five half tone illustrations in-text. This is a book from a professional chef aimed largely at other professionals. A fairly common book, but never the less an important item in any good and representative collection of antiquarian and modern pastry and confectionery books.

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Modern category

ref number: 11033

SMITH. Robert Very Scarce.
Court Cookery: or the Compleat English COOK.
Containing the Choicest and Newest RECEIPTS FOR MAKING Soops, Pottages, Fricasseys, Harshes, Farces, Ragoo's, Cullises, Sauces, Forc'd-Meats, and Souses: With various Ways of Dressing most Sorts of Flesh, Fish, and Fowl, Wild, and Tame; with the best Methods of Potting, Collaring and Pickling. AS LIKEWISE Of Pastes, Pies, Pasties, Patties, Puddings, Tansies, Biskets, Creams, Cheesecakes, Florentines, Cakes, Jellies, Sillabubs and Custards. ALSO Of Candying and Preserving: With a Bill of Fare for every Month in the Year, and the latest Improvements in Cookery, Pastry, &c. By R. Smith, Cook (under Mr. Lamb) to King William, as also to the Dukes of Buckingham, Ormond, D'Aumone (the French Ambassador) and others of the Nobility and Gentry. The Second Edition, with large Additions. LONDON: Printed for T. Wotton, at the Three-Daggers in Fleet-Street. M.DCC.XXV.
8vo. 1fep. Title page with double line border. [1] 6p To the Nobility and Gentry with printers device at the top of the page. 1+2-212. 213-218 Bills of Fare. 14p Index. 1fep. Text and pages very slightly age browned at the edges but overall nice, clean and crisp. Full dark brown calf original boards with a lovely patina. The spine rebound in sympathetic dark brown calf with raised bands, blind-tooled lines, with a dark green label with gilt letters and lines. With the date 1725 in gilt at the bottom of the spine. overall a very nice copy with the bookplate of Mary Chadsey.
- In the Preface, Robert Smith, who worked under Patrick Lamb in the kitchens of King William states he knew most of Lamb’s receipts and methods of dressings; yet several of those receipts now in Lamb’s famous cookery book ‘Royal Cookery’ were never made or practised by him. He further states that other receipts are extreme [sic] defective and imperfect, and made up of ingredients unknown to him; he further claims they were more calculated at the purses, than the ‘gout’ of the guests. Strong criticism of a fellow chef indeed.! A riposte from Lamb is not recorded. A search of Wikipedia highlights an interesting point --- according to legend, the macaroon was invented in an Italian monastery in 1792. Later, two Carmelite nuns, hiding in the town of Nancy during the French Revolution, baked and sold macaroons to cover their expenses. They became known as the "Macaroon Sisters." The cookie recipe was supposedly passed on to the Jewish community in France, who subsequently made it a staple of Passover baking --- However, recipes for macaroons (also spelled "mackaroon" "maccaroon" and "mackaroom") appear in 1724, the date of this edition of Smith's ‘Court Cookery. A scarce and interesting book.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11034

Farley. John - The rare first edition
The London Art of Cookery,
AND HOUSEKEEPER'S COMPLETE ASSISTANT. On a NEW PLAN. Made Plain and Easy to the Understanding of every HOUSEKEEPER, COOK, and SERVANT in the Kingdom. CONTAINING, Proper Directions for the Choice of all Kinds of Provisions. Roasting and Boiling all Sorts of Butchers Meat, Poultry, Game, and Fish. Sauces for every Occasion. Soups, Broths, Stews, and Hashes. Made Dishes, Ragouts, and Fricasses. All Sorts of Pies and Puddings. Proper Instruction for dressing of Fruits and Vegetables. Pickling, Potting, and Preserving. The Prepeartion of Hmas, Tongues, and Bacon. The whole Art of Confectionary. Tarts, Puffs, and Pastries. Cakes, Custards, Jams, and Jellies. Drying, Candying, and Preserving Fruits, &c. Made Wines, Cordial Waters, and Malt Liquors. To which is added, AN APPENDIX, Cotaining Considerations on Culinary Poisins; Directions for making Broths, &c. for the Sick; a List of Things in Season in the different Months of the Year; Marketing Tables, &c. &c. Embeliched with A HEAD of the AUTHOR, and a Bill of Fare for every Month in the Year, elegantly engraved on Thirteen Copper-plates. By JOHN FARLEY, PRINCIPAL COOK AT THE LONDON TAVERN. LONDON: Printed for JOHN FEILDING, No.23, Pater-noster Row; and J. SCAT-CHERD and J. WHITTAKER, No.12, Ava Maria Lane, 1783. [Price Six Shillings Bound.]
FIRST EDITION. 1783. 3feps. [1]Engraved Frontispiecs of Farley - Publish'd Jan 1. 1783 ---. Title page. [1] (1)iv-vi Preface with facsimile signature of Farley. (1)viii-xx Contents. 12 engraved plates of Bills of Fare. (1)2-455. 456-459 Marketing Table. [1] 3feps. Full dark brown modern calf with blind tooling to the edge of the boards. The spine with raised bands and panels with gilt dentelles and enclosed gilt lines. Two labels, one red, one green with gilt writing. Water stains to the frontis and title page not affecting the text, nor Farley's portrait. Otherwise very clean internally. A lovely copy.
- Towards the end of the eighteenth century, large taverns had become fashionable banqueting places for gentlemen in London. This was reflected by their chefs and their published cookery books; This book by John Farley, Principal Cook at the London Tavern. Also Richard Brigg’s, ‘The English Art of Cookery’ from the Globe Tavern, Fleet St, the White Hart Tavern, Holburn and at the Temple Coffee House. Not forgetting Francis Collingwood and John Woolams, ‘The Universal Cook,’ from the Crown and Anchor Tavern in the Strand. Farley's place of employment, The London Tavern in Bishopsgate Street was the largest restaurant and banqueting facility in the City. It held functions for up to two thousand five hundred people at a sitting. In E. Callow's book on 'Old London Taverns - 1901 & J. Timbs 'Clubs of London' 1872, we learn that the establishment was 'par excellence' and the 'temple of gastronomy' in London. It did not have a bar nor coffee house, with a facade so large and discreet that many people thought it was the Bank of England. It had a prodigious cellar that stretched to both sides lengthways, even under the neighbouring buildings and far out in the front under Bishopsgate Street itself. It held among its huge stock hundreds of barrels of Porter, butts of Sherry, 4,300 dozen bottles of port, 1,200 dozen Champagne, walls of bottled Claret six deep, etc etc. We are informed that the floors of the cellars were a river of sawdust. Also in a huge tank in the cellar that occupied a whole vault, we find two tons of live turtle. We are informed that they can keep in excellent condition for three months if kept in the same water in which they were brought to the country. We learn that to change the water to that available here lessens the weight and flavour of the Turtle. We can find in Farley's book tips and information on how he grew mushrooms in the cellars. What a place to work! The kitchen brigade must have been huge, the wage bill for the whole Tavern - a small fortune each week. In PPC 42 & 43, Fiona Lucraft lays out a very comprehensive and compelling piece of research that rightly condemns Farley of devious and outright plagiarism and proves that most of The London Art of Cookery has been taken straight from the cookery books of Hannah Glasse and Elizabeth Raffald. Nevertheless one gets a sense from Farley’s book that he was a very good professional cook proud of his high standards. He is one of the first English cooks to express (so typical of the French for more than a century) a continuing need for progress and improvement in the culinary arts. Farley in his introduction states with some pride that -- 'Cookery, like every other Art, has been moving forward to Perfection by slow Degrees; and, though the Cooks of the last Century boasted of having brought it to the highest Pitch it could bear, yet we find that daily improvements are still making therein, which must be the Case of every Art depending on Fancy and Taste: ---’ Farley appears to have very high standards of cleanliness and safety, repeatedly stressing in his book, the need for saucepans to be both clean and well tinned and he has an appendix on ‘culinary poisons’, particularly the risk of copper poisoning, which can happen when the tin wears down and exposes foodstuffs to the copper underneath. Whatever Fiona Lutcraft's excellent article in PPC proves, this is still an exceptional cookery book and gives a very good idea of the foods and dishes available at a highly reputed establishment. One has to assume that as Farley brought out his very popular book that ran to many editions, albeit, some of it plagarised, he also cooked and served a large percentage of the recipes at The London Tavern. As a footnote; the first luxury restaurant to open in Paris paid homage to Farley’s place of work. In 1782 - ‘La Grande Taverne de Londres,’ was founded. The owner, Antoine Beauvilliers, a leading culinary writer and gastronomic authority, later wrote L’Art du cuisinier (1814), a cookbook that became a standard work on French culinary art. This book of Farley's on view here is the extremely rare first edition, and is equally as rare as the first editions of Glasse and Raffald.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11035

Dalrymple. George - A sole edition. Very scarce
The Practice of Modern Cookery;
ADAPTED TO FAMILIES OF DISTINCTION, As well as to those of The MIDDLING RANKS of LIFE. To which is added, A GLOSSARY explaining the Terms of Art. By GEORGE DALRYMPLE, Late Cook to Sir John Whitefoord, Bart. EDINBURGH: Printed for the Author. Sold by C.ELLIOT, Edinburgh; and T.LONGMAN, London. MDCCLXXXI.
FIRST AND SOLE EDITION. 1781. 1fep. Title page. [1] 1p Dedication to Lady Whitefoord. [1] 1+vi Preface. 1+2-462. 1+464 Glossary of Terms. 1+466-475 Index. 1p Errata. 1fep. Title page evenly browned. Some minor foxing and staining to first six leaves. Some very light age browning throughout. Original dark brown sheep boards. Modern sympathetically rebound dark brown spine with raised bands and blind tooling. A dark brown label with gilt lettering and lines.
- George Dalrymple provides us with around one thousand recipes, giving them both English and French names. He is also one of the first cookery writers to give a glossary of terms. These points are remarkable according to Maclean. In his preface Dalrymple explains "there are a number of excellent receipts I have had occasionally from others..." – Maclean may be rather less enthused had she realised that Dalrymple plagiarized many of the recipes from the Frenchman, Bernard Clermont’s cookery book, ‘The Professed Cook' first edition, 1755. (which in turn is a translation of Menon’s French work ‘Les Soupers de la Cour). George Dalrymple had been cook to Sir John Whitfoord and the book is dedicated to his wife. Sir John, the third baronet, lived in Whitefoord House in the Canongate in Edinburgh. Whitfoord is supposed to have been the original of Sir Arthur Wardour in Scott's 'Antiquary' and was one of the early partrons of Burns who celebrated him in verse and who made his daughter Maria [Cranstoun] the heroine of the 'Braes of Ballochmyle'. He was a very well-known figure in the Scottish capital and was depicted in Kay along with his cronies, Major Andrew Fraser and the Hon. Andrew Erskine (Edinburgh Portraits, 1877, no. cxcii). Thus it can be assumed that Dalrymple had cooked for the great and the good of mid-seventeenth century Edinburgh. This is a sole edition and uncommon in most cookery book collections. An interesting read also. Vicaire 244; Oxford p.113; Bitting p.114; Cagle 640; Maclean p.37; Lehmann p.141.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11036

Nott. John - With the bookplate of 'Steuart of Allanton' one of the oldest Scottish families
The Cook and Confectioner DICTIONARY:
Or, the Accomplish’d Housewife’s Companion. CONTAINING, 1. The Choicest Receipts in all the several Branches of Cookery; or the best and newest Ways of dressing all sorts of Flesh, Fish, Fowl, &c. for a Common or Noble Table; with their proper Garniture and Sauces. 11. The best way of making Bisks, Farces, forc’d Meats, Marinades, Olio’s Puptons, Ragoos, Sauces, Soops, Potages, &c. according to the English, French and Italian Courts. 111. All manner of Pastry-workss, as Biskets, Cakes, Cheese-cakes, Custards, Pastes, Patties, Puddings, Pyes, Tarts, &c. 1V. The various Branches of Confectionary; as Candying, Conserving, Preserving, and Drying all sorts of Flowers, Fruits, Roots, &c. Also Jellies, Composts, Marmalades, and Sugar-works. V. The way of making all English potable Liquors; Ale, Beer, Cider, Mead, Metheglin, Mum, Perry, and all sorts of Eng-lish Wines; Also Cordials, and Beautifying Waters. V1. Directions for ordering an Entertainment, or Bills of Fare for all Seasons of the Year; and setting out a Desert of Sweeet-meats to the best Advantage: With an Explanation of the Terms us’d in Carving. According to the Practice of the most celebrated Cooks, Confectioners, &c. in the Courts of England, France, c. and many private and accomplish’d House-wives. The Second Edition with Additions. Revised and Recommended By John Nott, late Cook the Dukes of Somerset, Ormond and Bolton; Lord Landsdown and Ashburnham. LONDON: Printed H.P. for C. Rivington, at the Bible and Crown, in St. Paul’s Church-yard. 1724. [Price six Shillings.]
8vo. 2feps. [1] Frontis-piece by J.Pine. Title page in red and black type. [1] 4p Introduction with printers device at the top. 2p Divertisements in Cookery. No page numbers but by the Alphabet 1+AL-YO. 14p Bills of Fare and Terms for Carving and setting out Dessert. 17p Index. 1p Advertisements. 2feps. Beautiful original two-tone dark tan boards with a modern dark calf spine with rasied bands and blind tooling. With a dark tan label and gilt lettering. A nice tightly bound and clean copy.
- John Nott, Cook to his Grace the Duke of Bolton strikes one in no small measure as being quite eccentric, at least on paper. In his book, the dedication is addressed to ‘all good housewives’ and starts ‘Worthy Dames----‘ He carries on, ‘-----it is unfashionable for a Book to come abroad without an Introduction, as for a Man to appear at Church with-out a Neckcloth, or a Lady without a Hoop-petticoat----‘ further on he states, ‘----of which I am satisfied you are already very sensible, or extol my own Performance; however, I flatter myself it will not, to you, be unacceptable----‘ he further addresses the Ladies, ‘---I have not troubled you with Fucus’s and Paints, for the putting of false Faces upon Nature, because you, my Country Women, for the Generality of you (as is allow’d even by all ingenious Foreigners) stand less in need of artificial Faces (your natural ones being more amiable) than those of your Sex in neighbouring Nations, with all their Paintings and Daubings;-----‘ Nott un-does his own efforts near the end of the dedication by proclaiming, ‘---And, indeed, great Pity were it if this Beneficence of Providence should be marr’d in the ordering, so as justly to merit the Reflection of the old Proverb, that though “God sends us Meat, yet the Devil does Cooks”------.’ I am sure that if English and also foreign Housewifes, as potential customers, had read the Dedication before buying it, the sales of Nott’s book would have taken a severe dip. However in saying all of the above, it is after all, extremely scarce, interesting and well laid out. There are very few copies that come up for sale at auction, bookfairs, in antiquarian bookshops or dealers catalogues.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11037

Briggs. Richard - Recipes for ‘Syringed Fritters, Nun's Farts and Churros.’
THE English Art of Cookery,
ACCORDING TO THE PRESENT PRACTICE; BEING A Complete Guide to all Housekeepers, ON A PLAN ENTIRELY NEW; CONSISTING OF THIRTY-EIGHT CHAPTERS. CONTAINING, Proper Directions for Marketing, and Trussing of poultry. The making of Soups and Broths. Dressing all Sorts of Fish. Sauces for every Occasion. Boiling and Roasting. Baking, Broiling and Frying. Stews and Hashes. Made Dishes of every Sort. Ragoos and Fricasees. Directions for dressing all Sorts of Roots and Vegetables. All Sorts of Aumlets and Eggs. Puddings, Pies, Tarts, &c. Pancakes and Fritters. Cheesecakes and Custards. Blancmange, Jellies, and Syllabubs. Directions for the Sick. Directions for Seafaring Men. Preserving, Syrups, and Conserves. Hogs Puddings, Sausages, &c. Potting, and little cold Dishes. The Art of Carving. Coliaring, Salting, and Sousing. Pickling. To keep Garden Vegetables, &c. A Catalogue of Things in Season. Made Wines and Cordial Waters. Brewing. English and French Bread, &c. WITH BILLS OF FARE FOR EVENY MONTH IN THE YEAR, Neatly and correctly engraved on Twelve Copper-Plates. By RICHARD BRIGGS, MANY YEARS COOK AT THE GLOBE TAVERN, FLEET-STREET, THE WHITE HART TAVERN, HOLBURN, AND NOW AT THE TEMPLE COFFEE-HOUSE. LONDON: PRINTED FOR G.G.J. AND J.ROBINSON, PATER-NOSTER-ROW.
8vo. 1fep. Half title.[1] Title page.[1] 1+iv To the Reader. 1+ii-xx Contents. p24 (versos blank) 12 Bills of Fare. 1+2-656. 1fep. Quarter mid-tan calf and corners with tan cloth boards. Water stain to bottom of the first thirty pages not affecting text. Last two leaves slighty dusty with a small 1" tear on the last last page where it has been re-laid with a strip in the guttering without loss of text. Overall a good copy.
- In an interesting and amusing article online there appears a title, ‘Syringed Fritters, Nun's Farts and Churros.’ The fritters named in the extensive article were almost always made from a Choux pastry or other hot water pastry recipe, because this dough is quite elastic in nature and therefore able to be piped/syringed into hot oil without falling apart (see the 4th photograph below). Most recipes for fried Choux pastry from the late 17th to early 18th century consisted of small balls of pastry, rather than the syringed sticks. As these small choux pastry fritters were hollow and very light in texture they were often known as "Pets" (farts) in French cooking texts. In some cases they were known as "Whore's Farts" or "Nun's Farts" depending on the humour of the author. In the more straight-laced 19th century the nun's farts were often turned into the more subtly amusing "Sighs". In this book by Richard Briggs there is a recipe for Syringed Fritters. It is in effect a choux pastry recipe, and very similar to the French Beignets. A close match to this English recipe is found in François Marin's "Les Dons de Comus" called; ‘Beignets Seringues,’ A similar recipe (albeit, slightly more dense) is still popular today in Spain, Portugal, France, Mexico and South America. They are called Churros, and are definitely piped sticks rather than balls, and traditionally served with a thick chocolate drink. Interestingly there is a very good sweet made by the Newaris of Nepal called 'Sail'. They are exactly the same shape as Churros but made from rice flour, sugar and baking soda and to fry them the mixture is pushed through a hole in a coconut shell. This leads to very long churros that are big spirals. They are fried in pure cow or buffulo ghee. The Newaris reheat them by holding over a fire and this gives them a very delicious crispy smokiness. Richard Briggs's book is a well-written and comprehensive study of the professional kitchen of the time. He appears to be quite a humble person, proclaiming in the dedication; --- I submit this Performance, with Deference and Respect, as I am conscious that Errors will creep into the best Performances, and that of having corrected the Mistakes of former Works, and added the most useful Improvements derived from my own Practice and Experience -- [Temple Coffee-House, Oct.1, 1788] This second edition is much rarer than the first. This is accounted for by the fact that a much smaller amount were published compared to the first edition of 1788. The BL lists only two copies of the second; one in the UK and one in Poland.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11038