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Hall. T.
The Queen's Royal Cookery:
OR,Expert and ready Way for the Dressing of all Sorts of Flesh, Fish: Either Bak'd, Boil'd, Roasted, Stew'd, Fry'd, Broil'd, Hash'd, Frigasied, Carbonaded, Forc'd, Collard'd, Sous'd, Dry'd, etc. After the Best and Newest Way. With their several Sauces and Salads. And making all sorts of PICKELS. ALSO Making Variety of Pies Pasties, Tarts, Chees-Cakes, Custards, and Creams, etc. WITH The ART of Preserving and Candying of Fruits and Flowers; and making of Conserves, syrups, Jellies, and Cordial Waters. Also making several sorts of English Wines, Cyder, Mead, Metheglin. TOGETHER, With several Cosmetick or Beautifying Waters: And also several sorts of Essences and Sweet Waters, by Persons of the highest Quality. By T. Hall, Free Cook of London. The Second Edition. Lonodn: Printed for C. Bates, at the Sun and Bible in Gilt-spur-street, in Pye-corner: And A. Bettesworth, at the Red Lion on London-Bridge, 1713. Licenses according to Order.
12 mo. Woodcut frontispiece with the head of Queen Anne above three sections. On the recto of the Frontis there is a manuscript note in ink -- ' Elizabeth Lidlow her book 1796 Given by her Grandfather' Title page. 5-6. The Preface. 7-180. 2 feps. A full page woodcut of pies on p.133. The whole text lightly age browned throughout. Contemporary full dark brown calf boards neatly relaid, with a nice patina. The spine is modern dark brown calf with raised bands and gilt lettering. A very scarce book.
- This second edition is very scarce with only a handful of copies located in the US; at Cornell, Kansas State, the Lib. Of Congress and a private owner. In UK there are three recorded; one each in the BL, Cambridge and the Wellcome Institute. Cagle was not able to locate a first and Bitting’s copy is 1730. There were six editions up to 1734. The Queen's Royal Cookery, by T. Hall, was first published in 1709 (with the BL also holding one of only three known). As well as a wide variety of basic culinary recipes, the book contains instructions for preserves, candies, cosmetics and beautifying waters. It is one of a number of books claiming to reveal the secrets of the royal kitchens, a highly fashionable subject during the 17th and 18th centuries. Queen Anne, who reigned from 1702-1714, was a rich source of gossip, and the public seemed to have an endless fascination for any information gleaned from beyond the palace walls. The production of art and literature prospered during Her reign. Throughout this period booksellers churned out popular recipe books, fully aware of the commercial viability of recipes linked to prestigious chefs. Unfortunately many of the books were thrown together by money-making charlatans who had simply filched their material from existing publications. Forty of T. Hall's recipes were taken directly from 'The Closet of the Eminently Learned Sir Kenelm Digby' (1669). Never the less an interesting book with the 17th century styled frontis of three engraved sections; A woodcut portrait of Queen Anne over a working kitchen scene, a pastry kitchen scene and a chymistry (chemistry) scene, which actually looks like a small distillery. Mrs Pennel - p145, describes Hall as a Free Cook of London, with little else known about him. Oxford p52, Cagle p719, Maclean p65.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11031

Briggs. Richard - Recipes for ‘Syringed Fritters, Nun's Farts and Churros.’
THE English Art of Cookery,
ACCORDING TO THE PRESENT PRACTICE; BEING A Complete Guide to all Housekeepers, ON A PLAN ENTIRELY NEW; CONSISTING OF THIRTY-EIGHT CHAPTERS. CONTAINING, Proper Directions for Marketing, and Trussing of poultry. The making of Soups and Broths. Dressing all Sorts of Fish. Sauces for every Occasion. Boiling and Roasting. Baking, Broiling and Frying. Stews and Hashes. Made Dishes of every Sort. Ragoos and Fricasees. Directions for dressing all Sorts of Roots and Vegetables. All Sorts of Aumlets and Eggs. Puddings, Pies, Tarts, &c. Pancakes and Fritters. Cheesecakes and Custards. Blancmange, Jellies, and Syllabubs. Directions for the Sick. Directions for Seafaring Men. Preserving, Syrups, and Conserves. Hogs Puddings, Sausages, &c. Potting, and little cold Dishes. The Art of Carving. Coliaring, Salting, and Sousing. Pickling. To keep Garden Vegetables, &c. A Catalogue of Things in Season. Made Wines and Cordial Waters. Brewing. English and French Bread, &c. WITH BILLS OF FARE FOR EVENY MONTH IN THE YEAR, Neatly and correctly engraved on Twelve Copper-Plates. By RICHARD BRIGGS, MANY YEARS COOK AT THE GLOBE TAVERN, FLEET-STREET, THE WHITE HART TAVERN, HOLBURN, AND NOW AT THE TEMPLE COFFEE-HOUSE. LONDON: PRINTED FOR G.G.J. AND J.ROBINSON, PATER-NOSTER-ROW.
8vo. 1fep. Half title.[1] Title page.[1] 1+iv To the Reader. 1+ii-xx Contents. p24 (versos blank) 12 Bills of Fare. 1+2-656. 1fep. Quarter mid-tan calf and corners with tan cloth boards. Water stain to bottom of the first thirty pages not affecting text. Last two leaves slighty dusty with a small 1" tear on the last last page where it has been re-laid with a strip in the guttering without loss of text. Overall a good copy.
- In an interesting and amusing article online there appears a title, ‘Syringed Fritters, Nun's Farts and Churros.’ The fritters named in the extensive article were almost always made from a Choux pastry or other hot water pastry recipe, because this dough is quite elastic in nature and therefore able to be piped/syringed into hot oil without falling apart (see the 4th photograph below). Most recipes for fried Choux pastry from the late 17th to early 18th century consisted of small balls of pastry, rather than the syringed sticks. As these small choux pastry fritters were hollow and very light in texture they were often known as "Pets" (farts) in French cooking texts. In some cases they were known as "Whore's Farts" or "Nun's Farts" depending on the humour of the author. In the more straight-laced 19th century the nun's farts were often turned into the more subtly amusing "Sighs". In this book by Richard Briggs there is a recipe for Syringed Fritters. It is in effect a choux pastry recipe, and very similar to the French Beignets. A close match to this English recipe is found in François Marin's "Les Dons de Comus" called; ‘Beignets Seringues,’ A similar recipe (albeit, slightly more dense) is still popular today in Spain, Portugal, France, Mexico and South America. They are called Churros, and are definitely piped sticks rather than balls, and traditionally served with a thick chocolate drink. Interestingly there is a very good sweet made by the Newaris of Nepal called 'Sail'. They are exactly the same shape as Churros but made from rice flour, sugar and baking soda and to fry them the mixture is pushed through a hole in a coconut shell. This leads to very long churros that are big spirals. They are fried in pure cow or buffulo ghee. The Newaris reheat them by holding over a fire and this gives them a very delicious crispy smokiness. Richard Briggs's book is a well-written and comprehensive study of the professional kitchen of the time. He appears to be quite a humble person, proclaiming in the dedication; --- I submit this Performance, with Deference and Respect, as I am conscious that Errors will creep into the best Performances, and that of having corrected the Mistakes of former Works, and added the most useful Improvements derived from my own Practice and Experience -- [Temple Coffee-House, Oct.1, 1788] This second edition is much rarer than the first. This is accounted for by the fact that a much smaller amount were published compared to the first edition of 1788. The BL lists only two copies of the second; one in the UK and one in Poland.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11038

Toklas Alice B. - With a rare signed presentation inscription from the Author.
Cook Book
ILLUSTRATIONS BY SIR FRANCIS ROSE. (Printers device of a mermaid) London. MICHAEL JOSEPH
FIRST ENGLISH EDITION. 1954. 8vo. 235 x 157 mm. Illustrated cartographic front paste-down and end-paper. [1] Half title. On verso is a tipped-in book-review card from the publisher Messers. Michael Joseph Ltd. 1 blank with signed presentation inscription from the author in her typical shaky script - "For Jacques Ehrmann - The perhaps youngest of the admirers of Gertrude Stein to cross my path? With all good wishes, Alice Toklas". Frontispiece drawing of Toklas. Title page. Printers info. page. 1p Contents. [1] ix-xi A Word with Cook. [1] (2)3-280. (2)283-288 Index of Recipes. 2fep. [1] Illustrated cartographic back end-paper and paste-down. Cream coloured cloth boards. Spine with gilt and green cloth label. Distinctive D/J with large coloured drawing of Toklas, the back with fruit filled vine. The spine with 7mm chip to the top spreading to a 1/4 of the back, and 5mm bottom of spine chip. Very lightly age-browned & very slightly chipped at edges, but looks fresh. Text block very clean. Illustrated throughout by Francis Rose. Internally very good.
- - The person who received this inscribed copy from Toklas was Jacques Ehrmann (1931 - 1972). A French theorist and faculty member at Yale. He would have been 24 in 1955. What is unusual also is the publisher's book-review card tipped into the verso of the title page and opposite the signed presentation to Jacques Ehrmann. It states that the book was sold for 21 shillings (old UK money) and published on the 15th November 1954. One wonders whether this was a book given initially to Toklas from Michael Joseph and she signed it and gave it to Mr Ehrmann, or was it sent to Ehrmann by the publisher who in turn did an official review and then got it signed by Toklas. A mystery! Alice Babette Toklas was born in San Francisco, California into a middle-class Jewish family and attended schools in both San Francisco and Seattle. For a short time she also studied music at the University of Washington. She went to Paris and met Gertrude Stein an American writer, on September 8, 1907 on the first day that she arrived. Together they hosted a famous salon at 27 rue de Fleurus that attracted expatriate American writers, such as Ernest Hemingway, Paul Bowles, Thornton Wilder and Sherwood Anderson, and avant-garde painters, including Picasso, Matisse and Braque. Acting as Stein's confidante, lover, cook, secretary, muse, editor, critic, and general organizer, Toklas remained a background figure, chiefly living in the shadow of Stein, until Stein published her memoirs in 1933 under the teasing title The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas. It became Stein's bestselling book. The two were a couple until Gertrude Stein's death in 1946. Toklas then published her own literary memoir, this 1954 book that mixed reminiscences and recipes. The most famous recipe therein (actually contributed by her friend Brion Gysin) is called "Haschich Fudge", a mixture of fruit, nuts, spices, and ‘canibus [sic] sativa’, or marijuana. Her name was later lent to the range of cannabis concoctions called Alice B. Toklas brownies. Some believe that the slang term "take a toke", meaning to inhale marijuana, is derived from her last name. The cookbook has not been out of print since it was first published, and has been translated into numerous languages, most recently into Norwegian in 2007. A second cookbook followed in 1958 called 'Aromas and Flavors of Past and Present' [see item # 11335 below]. She also wrote articles for several magazines and newspapers including The New Republic and the New York Times, In 1963 she published her autobiography, 'What Is Remembered', which abruptly ends with Stein's death, leaving little doubt that Stein was the love of her lifetime. Her later years were very difficult because of poor health and financial problems, aggravated by the fact that Stein's heirs took the priceless paintings (some of them by Picasso) which had been left to her by Stein. Toklas also became a Roman Catholic convert in her old age as she had been told by a priest that in that way she may possibly meet Stein again in the afterlife. She died in poverty at the age of 89, and is buried next to Stein in Père Lachaise Cemetery, Paris, France; Toklas' name is engraved on the back of Stein's headstone. This very scarce famous cookery book is made very rare with Toklas's signed inscription.

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Modern category

ref number: 11098

Shackleford. Mrs Ann - The very rare Dublin imprint.
THE Modern Art of Cookery IMPROVED:
OR, Elegant, cheap, and Easy Methods, of preparing most of the Dishes now in Vogue; In the Composition whereof Both Health and Pleasure have been consulted. BY Mrs Ann Shackleford, of Winchester. TO WHICH IS ADDED. An APPENDIX; Containing a Dissertation on the different Kinds of Food, their Nature, Quality, and various Uses. By a PHYSICIAN. AND A MARKETING MANUAL, And other useful Particulars. By the EDITOR. ----- She turns, on hospitable thoughts intent, What choice to chuse for delicacy best; What order, so contriv’d as not to mix Tastes, not well join’d, inelegant, but bring Taste after Taste, upheld with kindliest change. MILTON. ----- DUBLIN: Printed for William Colles, in Dame-Street. [c. 1771]
12mo. 1fep. 2p Advertisements. Title Page. [1] iii-iv Preface. (1)vi – xxiii Marketing Manual. xxiv – xxiii. xxiv - xxv 2 pages of Marketing Tables. [1] 1-281. P15 Index. 1fep. Modern binding with half brown cloth with gilt tooling separating the marbled boards. Gilt lines on the spine and two black leather labels with gilt writing. Very light age browning to the first and last few pages and some minor staining to some of the pages. Overall, a nice bright copy of a very elusive book.
- Nothing is known about Mrs Ann Shackleford but her cookery books appear to be extremely scarce. MacLean [p130] displays Mrs Shackleton’s title page of the first English addition of 1767 and interestingly, reckons it has a crafty worded description in “Modern Cookery Improved”. She also notes that Milton’s quote gives the mere cookbook a literary fillip. MacLean also cites a Dublin edition that had been owned by the BLB, undated without printer’s details but destroyed. (Confirmed in a letter from the BL Ref. Div. to MacLean). She also references (Pub. Adv. of 23rd Jan 1771) another London edition of 1771 printed for T. Carnan and F. Newbury. Oxford also notes an undated Dublin edition. Cagle has an English first of 1767 but unusually misquotes Oxford as stating the London edition instead of the Dublin one. Besides MacLean, all of the other bibliographies give sketchy or no information about this Dublin edition. One must assume great scarcity.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11116

Borella. Mr - Very scarce.
THE COURT AND COUNTRY CONFECTIONER:
OR, THE House-Keeper’s Guide; to a more speedy, plain, and familiar method of understanding the whole art of confectionary, pastry, distilling, and the making of fine flavoured English wines from all kinds of fruits, herbs, flowers; comprehending near four hundred and fifty easy receipts, never before made known. PARTICULARY, Preserving. Carving. Icing Transparent Marmalade, Orange, Pine-Apple, Pistachio, and other Rich Creams. Caramel. Pastils. Bomboons. Puff, Spun, and Fruit –Pastes. Light Biscuits. Puffs. Rich Seed-Cakes. Custards. Flummeries. Trifles. Whips. Fruits. and other Jellies. -- Pickles, &c. ALSO New and easy directions for clarifying the different degrees of sugar, together with several bills of fare of deserts for private gentlemen’s families. To which is added, A dissertation on the different special of fruits, and the art of distilling simple waters, cordials, perfumed oils, essences. By an Mr Borella, now head confectioner to the Spanish Ambassador in England. LONDON. Printed for G. RILEY, at his Circulating Library, Curzon-street, Mayfair; J. BELL in the Strand; J. Wheble, Pater-noster-row; and C. Etherington, at York. M.DCC.LXXII.
8vo. 2fep. Title Page. [1] (1)ii Dedication. (1)2-3 Author's Address. [1] (1)ii-xxiii(1) Contents. (1}2-271. [1] [1]2-46 Distillery. 1fep. A pleasing copy lightly age-browned throughout. Full contemporary calf with a nice patina. Double blind-tooled lines around the boards. The spine with single gilt lines and a red label. With the bookplate of Mary Chadsey on the front paste-down. An extremely scarce cookery book that rarely shows up on the market.
- This is the 2nd issue of the second edition with a different title page. The first issue has "A New Edition" added on the title page. Apparently this is the edition that first identifies Borella as the author. From Ivan Day's very interesting web-site 'Historical Food' I have copied the following extract --"Although they had been known in England since the 1670's, ices were popularised by French and Italian confectioners who set up shops in London and a few other cities in the 1760's. Some varieties that are fashionable in modern times, such as brown bread and pistachio, actually date from this period. The first English recipes for these two flavours appear in a confectionery text of 1770. In the same book are recipes for ices made with elderflowers, jasmine, white coffee, tea, pineapple, barberries and a host of other tempting and unusual flavours. Although this book was published anonymously, we only learn from the second edition of 1772 that the author was called Mr. Borella, and that he was confectioner to the Spanish ambassador. His little work The Court and Country Confectioner was aimed at instructing English housekeepers in the mysteries of making the sort of high class confectionery that was fashionable in court circles on the continent. Although there had been earlier English cookery books that offered a few ice cream recipes, Borella's work was the first to give really clear instructions on making these novel and prestigious delicacies. One example was the recipe for elder-flavoured muscadine ice. Borella also suggests a variant on this recipe, which is made with white currant ice rather than lemon water ice. This unusual combination is actually one of the most spectacular ices of all time and demonstrates just how inventive the eighteenth century confectioner could be". ---- Mr Borella's book of confectionery is quite a comprehensive list of contemporary recipes similar to those of Frederick Nutt, 'The Complete Confectioner' 1789, and Hannah Glasse's 'Compleat Confectioner' of the same date as Borella's book. A check of the recipes show a lot of similarity but three unusual recipes catch the attention. First from Borella p188, comes a confusing recipe called "Burgundy Wine Ice cream". that starts with spices and milk boiled with rice to thicken and then added again to more milk and then to thicken with beaten egg white, strew with sugar and browned under the salamander: No wine and hot as well - Hmmm !!. Next from Hannah Glasse a very intriguing recipe for "Preserved Samphire" p73, that calls for the sea vegetable to be boiled in syrup and then dried with more sugar strewn on top and allowed to dry completely. I imagine quite an odd taste sensation similar to the astringency of Japanese Omeboshi plums, albeit, with the naturally salty samphire probably a little sweeter. The most unlikely recipe has to go to Frederick Nutt. p125, He tries to entice us with a basic ice cream recipe similar to 'Creme Anglaise' (a cooked egg custard sauce) to which Parmesan Cheese is added before freezing. One feels a prudent need to comment rather than volunteer to taste. Simon, Cagle and Bitting all record a first edition. Maclean has this copy for G. Riley [&c.].

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11151

David Elizabeth - Signed limited edition.
Italian Food
THIS SPECIAL EDITION OF ITALIAN FOOD HAS BEEN LIMITED TO 400 COPIES AND SIGNED BY THE AUTHOR, ELIZABETH DAVID, OF WHICH THIS COPY IS NUMBER 168/400. ELIZABETH DAVID (And also her full signature, undelined) WITH THE COMPLIMENTS OF CPC (UNITED KINGDOM) LTD., FOOD INGREDIENTS DIVISION CHRISTMAS 1988. BARRIE & JENKINS LONDON.
SPECIAL EDITION. Large 4to. Light grey paste-down and endpapers. Half-title. [1] Title page. [1] Second title page. [1] 1pp Contents. On the verso, a re-print of Kitchen scenes from Bartolomeo Scappi's Opera. 7-16 Introduction. p16 Acknowledgments. On verso; A painting of a Kitchen. 19-224. 225-239 [1] Index. Light grey paste-down and endpapers. Light grey cloth binding with silver writing on the spine. D/J as new. Internally very clean. As new.
- A very handsome book commissioned by CPC UK Ltd. for Xmas 1988. With many coloured illustrations and wonderful reprints of paintings of numerous kitchen scenes. This glossy production definitely has the E.D. stamp. It has many interesting recipes and fulsome information on all things gastronomically Italian and Italian products. A signed copy of a limited edition of 400 only, published four years before her death. Probably one of the least known and very scarce Elizabeth David's publishing collaborations.

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Modern category

ref number: 11179

Nignon. Edouard - A rare signed copy.
Les Plaisirs de la Table
Ou, sous une forme nouvelle, l'Auteur a devoile maints delicieux secrets et recettes de bonne Cuisine, transcrit les precieux et de fins Gourmets fameux et de fins Gourmets, conseillers aimables et surs en l'Art du Bein Manger PREFACE DE M. ROBERT DE FLERS de l'Academie Francaise (A prinetr's device of a sheep) DESSINS de P.F. GRIGNON. A.PARIS CHEZ L'AUTEUR et chez J. MEYNAIL, Libraire, 30, Boulevard HAUSSMANN OUVRAGE DEPOSE.
FIRST EDITION. Circa 1926. 4to. Paste-down and fep with red and blue print design. [1] 1 plain fep with Nignon’s signature and a dedication written in ink in a beautiful cursive script; a Madame Erlanger Respectueux Hommages de L’auteur E. Nignon. Half title. [1] 1p Dedication to A. Antonin Careme by Nignon. Frontispiece is a small red illustration. Title page.[1] (1)viii-xiv Preface by Robert de Flers. 1p Chapitre Premier. [1] (1)18-326. 1p Journal. [1] (1)329-333 Table des Matieres. 1p Printer's device. Last fep and paste-down with red and blue print design. Text in black with many very fine red illustrations throughout. The start of each chapter is a full-page illustrated design in red. Full original blue and crimson paper cover in very good condition. Internally very clean with pages slightly age browned due to the paper quality used at that time. Edges untrimmed and many pages uncut. A nice original copy of the first edition with the author’s signature.
- Edouard Nignon was born, one of eight siblings in Nantes on November 9, 1865. He died in Britian in 1934 one year before his great professional French compatriot, Auguste Escoffier. Nignon considered by many contemporaries to have been one of the best chefs of the time. He wrote and published three main titles. Two editions of Les Plaisirs de la Table, the first published in 1926. Two editions, the first published in 1919 of L' Heptaméron des Gourmets, ou, Les Délices de la Cuisine Française. One edition, first published in 1933 of Éloges de la Cuisine Française. Copies with Nignon’s signature are extremely rare.

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Modern category

ref number: 11186

Escoffier. Georges Auguste - Extremely rare.
Signed photograph.
A group of nine chefs with George Auguste Escoffier, one of whom is also Escoffier's famed pupil - Charles Scotto.
Vintage sepia mounted photograph framed beautifully in a dark brown matte cardboard border and enclosed in a brown and gold frame, measuring 12”x13”. The photograph itself measures 6 ½” x 4 ½”.
- This is a very rare signed photograph. It is a small brigade of chefs outside the legendary ‘Casino Dieppe’ France, circa - 1927. The uniqueness comes about by the inclusion within the group of the famous Chef, Auguste Escoffier seated in a dark suit, and also his famous pupil, apprentice and friend: Charles Scotto -- seated to Escoffier’s left. The signatures of Escoffier and Scotto are respectively on the bottom left and right of the picture. Charles Scotto was born 1887 in Monte Calro and in his youth became a close friend of Escoffier. At the turn of the century Scotto had been a commis chef in the brigade at the Savoy Hotel London where Escoffier was Maitre Chef de Cuisine. Scotto helped Escoffier all thro’ his professional life with planning and opening many new kitchens and restaurants such as the new Carlton Hotel in London’s Pall Mall and the extremely popular, new and innovative al'a Carte 'Ritz restaurants' on board the Hamburg-Amerika line, especially in the kitchens of S.S.Imperator (see item # 11213 on this site) where he was Escoffier's partner in this undertaking. He represented and helped Escoffier in the setting up and the opening of many of his other ventures over the years, including the famous 'Casino Dieppe, Normandy. In 1928, at the Sorbonne in Paris, The World Chefs' Association was formed and it is still in existence today. Scotto was the first president. He also opened other hotels including the famous Pierre Hotel in New York. For the opening Scotto invited Auguste Escoffier (described by Andre L. Simon in his obituary to Escoffier in the 'Wine & Food Society' Magazine as his last official act). In 1935 Escoffier passed away in Monte Carlo. In America ‘Les Amis d' Escoffier’ held their first memorial dinner at the Jensen Suite of the Waldorf with 53 friends of the famous chef attending a memorable feast. In 1936, approximately a year after the death of Georges Auguste Escoffier, members of the American Culinary Federation [ACF] in New York City invited hoteliers and leading citizens to join with the chefs to preserve the culinary traditions of the master. The then - ACF President Charles Scotto, well known as Escoffier's "beloved apprentice," and General Secretary Joseph Donon, hosted the premiere meeting of their new society for gourmets in the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel on March 30, 1936. Rules were established that forbade drunkenness. Only wine or aperitifs were served. Les Amis prohibited smoking at table, claiming that anyone who smoked between courses did not deserve the title of gourmet. Speech making was not allowed either. Ultimately, dining rules required silence during dinner so guests could focus on the dish at hand without distraction. Charles Scotto passed away in 1937 aged only 51, following kidney surgery. More than 1,000 of his admirers and colleagues attended the funeral. A solemn high mass was celebrated at the Church of Our Lady of Refuge, on Ocean and Foster Avenues in Brooklyn, His widow traveled with his remains to Monte Carlo where he was buried. While photographs of Escoffier are quite common, those of Scotto are scarce and signed images of both chefs together are rare in the extreme.

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Ephemera category

ref number: 11187

Escoffier. Georges Auguste - Extremely Rare.
An original b/w photograph of Auguste Escoffier.
SITTING WITH HIS FULL KITCHEN BRIGADE. 1905.
320 mm long x 153 mm high. Under the photograph is a small cut out of the original mount, stating; The Carlton Hotel. 1905. The photograph is mounted on a black cardboard border and covered by glass and bordered with a black and silver frame. One of his most famous pupils; Charles Scotto, sits in the photograph fourth from the left on the second row. Pasted on the back is the original photographer’s name in gilt, cut from the mount before it was framed. It was by Fradelle & Young, 283 Regents St. London W.1. They specialised in hotel and restaurant group photography of dinners, receptions & full kitchen brigades. ITEM 2. See image # 5. below. For reference; I requested a scan done by the framers of the original large photograph used. It shows in full a large ugly part of the Carlton Hotel roof, which was cut out before framing.
- This rare original photograph of Auguste Escoffier and his kitchen brigade, was taken on the roof of the Carlton Hotel 1905. A casual glance at this old image belies the contemporary history that Escoffier brought about by very hard work, his great extensive writings, his organisational skills, and a huge passion to improve the lot of his beloved chefs. It is one of the reasons why he is held in such high esteem, and a feeling of deep gratitude lies in the hearts of most well trained modern chefs, because his updated re-organisation of the large Kitchen brigade is still the way modern kitchens are organised. The following list is of the different members and departments of his large kitchen brigade system. Only the largest of hotels like the Carlton Hotel had this fully staffed brigade (54 people in this photograph) with all the following departments fully functioning. Escoffier devised this system, primarily during his time at the Savoy Hotel London, before going to the Carlton from 1899 to 1919. This very efficient organisation allowed sincere chefs to learn all the important skills of every department in the largest kitchen brigades. Staring at the top was the MAITRE-CHEF de CUISINE (literally translated; "Master Chef") Responsible for overall management of kitchen; supervises staff, creates menus and new recipes with the assistance of the restaurant manager, makes purchases of raw food items, trains apprentices, and maintains a sanitary and hygienic environment for the preparation of food. SOUS-CHEF de CUISINE (deputy head chef; literally "sub-chief") Receives orders directly from the chef de cuisine for the management of the kitchen, and often serves as the representative when the chef de cuisine is not present. Does not usually work on the stove anymore. In a big brigade there can be as many as 4-6 sous-chefs. CHEF de PARTIE (senior chef of a department) Responsible for managing a department in the kitchen, specializing in preparing particular dishes there. CHEF TOURNANT (Can be a Chef de partie in any department) The most experienced, having trained as a Chef de partie in every department. Will cover for any Chef de partie on their days off or holidays. Usually fills any vacancy for the Sous-chef’s position. CHEF SAUCIER (Chef de partie of the sauce dept.) Prepares all meat sauces and stocks and completes meat dishes. This is one of the most respected positions in the kitchen brigade. CHEF ROTTISEUR (Chef de partie of the roast department.) Manages a team of cooks that roasts, broils, and deep fries dishes. CHEF POISSONNIER (Chef de partie of the fish department.) Prepares all fish and seafood dishes and fish sauces and stocks. Usually has a fishmonger in the department. CHEF ENTREMETIER (Chef de partie of vegetable and farinaceous department.) Prepares all vegetables, soups and egg dishes. CHEF GARDE-MANAGER (Chef de partie of the cold larder.) Responsible for preparation of cold hors d'oeuvres, pâtés, terrines and aspics; prepares salads; organizes large buffet displays; and prepares charcuterie items. Usually the largest staffed department in the kitchen. CHEF PATTISIER (Chef de partie of pastry department.) Prepares desserts and other meal-end sweets, ices, cakes, petit-fours, pulled sugar works, also has a ‘boulanger’, preparing breads and other baked items; may also prepare pasta for the restaurant. BOUCHER (the butcher) Butchers meats, poultry, prepare meats for the Garde manger’s pates and terrines. Clean all game ready for roasting. May also be in charge of breading meats. CUISINIER (cook) May also be referred to as a cuisinier de partie. Also known as a ‘demi-chef de partie’ who takes over from the Chef de partie on his days off. COMMIS (junior cook) Works in a specific partie, but reports directly to the chef de partie. Can also be 2nd or 3rd commis depending on age and experience. The Chef de cuisine changes their departments annually to give them all round experience of all ‘parties’. APPRENTIE (apprentice.) Often students gaining theoretical and practical training, in school and work experience in the kitchen. They perform preparatory work under a Chef de Partie. PLONGEUR or MARMITON (dishwasher or kitchen porter.) cleans dishes and utensils, and may be entrusted with basic preparatory jobs. ABOYEUR (announcer/expediter) During the meal service times takes the orders from the dining room waiters and distributes them to the various departments; the role usually performed by the Sous-chef. CHEF COMMUNARD Prepares the meal served to the restaurant staff. GARCON de CUISINE (literally ‘kitchen boy’) In larger establishments, performs preparatory and auxiliary work for support. This photograph gives an insight into how many chefs are employed in the large well known luxury hotels. The range of skills that have to be mastered is huge. A commis chef's apprenticeship usually lasted up to 7 years. Even after that, a lot of chefs move to other well known establishments to gain more experience. Indeed a great chef's career path is always dictated by quality and reputation. Because the initial years as an apprentice is so tough and very focused on improving skills, they never lose the desire to learn. As a foot note and interestingly, in all photographs I have viewed of Escoffier sitting with his full kitchen brigades, (and they were done annually) He always sat sideways to the direct camera angle. Curious.!

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Ephemera category

ref number: 11230

GELLEROY. William First edition with the large folded frontispiece of the King's dinner.
THE LONDON COOK
OR The whole ART of COOKERY made easy and familiar. CONTAING A great Number of approved and practical RECEIPTS in every Branch of Cookery. VIZ. Chap. 1. Of Soups, Broths and Gravy.11I. Of Pancakes, Fritters, Possets, Tanseys, &c. 111. Of Fish. 1V. Of Boiling. V. Of Roasting. V1. Of Made-Dishes. V11. Of Poultry and Game. V111. Sauces for Poultry and Game. (with two up and down separating parallel lines) 1X. Sauces for Butcher's Meat, &c. X. Of Puddings. X1. Of Pies, Custards, and Tarts, &c. X11. Of Sausages, Hogs-Puddings, &c. V111. Of Potting and Collaring. X1V. Of Pickles. XV. Of Creams, Jellies, &c. XV1. Of made wine. (a single horizontal line) By WILLIAM GELLEROY, Late Cook to her Grace the Dutchess [sic] of Argyle. And now to the Right Hon. Sir Samuel Fludger, Bart. Lord Mayor of the City of London. (a single horizontal line). To which is prefixed, A large Copper-Plate, representing his Majesty's Table, with its proper Removes, as it was served at Guild-Hall, on the 9th of November last, being the Lord Mayor's Day when His Majesty, and the Royal Family, did the City the Honour to dine with them, and wrere highly pleased with their Entertainment. (two single horizontal lines). LONDON: Printed for S. Crowder, and Co. at the Looking-Glass; J. Coote, at the King's-Arms, in Pater-noster Row; and J. Fletcher, St. Paul's Church-Yard. MDCCLX11.
FIRST EDITION. 1762. 8vo, 195 x 118 mms. 1 fep. Frontis of a large folding engraved plate measuring 260 x 340mm, of His Majesty's Table at the Guild Hall on Wednesday 9th November 1762, repaired on verso. Title Page. [1] (1)-iv. To the reader. 4p King & Queen & Royal Families Banquet dishes. (14) Contents. (1)2-486. 2p Advertisements. 1fep. Contemporary speckled brown calf rebacked. Raised bands between gilt rules on spine. Black morocco label. A very good copy.
- A.W. Oxford thinks this is a very good book and commends it for being the first for having a modest preface. Fortunately it has the large folded plate of the King's table as the frontispiece. It appears from auction and dealer's records that it is often missing. William Gelleroy describes himself on the title-page as "Late Cook to her Grace the Dutchess [sic] of Argyle. And now to the Right Hon. Sir Samuel Fludger, Bart. Lord Mayor of the City of London." "Fludger" is in fact Sir Samuel Fludyer (1704 - 1768), one of London's foremost merchants who left an estate valued at £900,000 at his death; an astonishing £176,623,969 in 2020. (we can assume that Gelleroy must have been well paid) There are in his book a number of curious recipes. For example, Lambs Ears fried: "Take twelve lambs ears, prepared as mentioned in the Bechamel of lambs ears; when drained and wiped dry, fill the insides with a fine force-meat, roll them in the yolks of beaten eggs, and strew them with the crumbs of grated bread; fry them of a fine brown in hogs-lard, and serve them with a brown coullis sauce, and the juice of an orange or lemon." From the Cookery book collection of Ruth Watson. A very scarce book. ESTC T63887; Bitting p.179; Maclean p.56; Oxford p. 92; Simon BG 740.

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Antiquarian category

ref number: 11292